Types of weaving, description and diagrams

It’s important to consider not only the material but also the weaving technique when selecting a fabric. The various weaving techniques give fabrics their distinct appearance, texture, and longevity. Knowing these patterns will enable you to choose the ideal fabric for your requirements, be they strong and structured or soft and flexible.

Types of weaving range from the simple plain weave to more complex designs such as satin and twill. Different weave types influence different aspects of the fabric, such as its texture and drape. You will have a greater understanding of the artistry involved in producing the textiles we use on a daily basis after learning about these weaving techniques.

The most popular kinds of weaving will be covered in this article, along with straightforward explanations and illustrations to help you see how these designs are made. This information will be interesting and helpful to you whether you’re a fashion enthusiast or just inquisitive about textiles.

Smooth

It is important to define the fibers used in the production of textiles before discussing the various types of weavings. Threads made from natural, artificial, or synthetic raw materials can be spun into fibers or formed chemically.

The fibers stretched across the loom frame are known as the warp thread. The fibers that are affixed to a loom’s shuttle are known as weft thread. The shuttle creates overlap by moving the weft threads between the warp threads while it is in operation.

Rapport is a weaving pattern that repeats. Symbolized by the R letter. The indices "y" or "o" are positioned according to the weft or warp, respectively.

The shift indicates how many threads were eliminated during the prior overlap. represented by the letter S and the appropriate indexes "o" or "y."

When making textiles, the following are the primary smooth weave types:

1. Linen (simple).
2. Twill.
3. Satin.
4. Satin.

Overlaps of sateen and satin are grouped together since they are made similarly and differ only in the thread that is visible on the front side. We refer to this group as satin-satin.

Polotnyanoye

The basic checkerboard pattern created by alternating the weft and warp threads is what defines a plain weave. This is how the rapport formula is calculated: RO = RU = 2.

The primary attributes of the textiles made using this technique are their strength and smoothness. Different density and stiffness indicators can be present on canvases that share the same face and back. To the touch, the surface feels smooth. Fabrics with patterns and plain dyes are made. Printing is used to apply the pattern.

In the textile industry, the simple weave method is used to create the following kinds of fabrics:

• from cotton: cambric, marquisette, madapolam, calico, chintz, calico, etc.;
• from linen fibers: suit, dress, lining, canvas;
• from silk threads: crepe de chine, crepe georgette, crepe chiffon;
• wool: cloth.

This is the process used to make hand-spun, homespun fabrics. One thread needs to be thicker in order to weave ribbed fabrics. The threads’ heterogeneity produces a transverse pattern that is even and stable. This type of weaving is known as false rep. Take poplin or taffeta, for instance.

Fabric strength is determined by simple weaves. The threads’ checkerboard design exhibits resilience against tearing and abrasion, and it can tolerate hot water washing with bleach and stain remover. Thus, when it comes to sewing bed linens and other household items, calico, chintz, and linen are regarded as the best.

Considered fundamental, the simple overlap method serves as the foundation for intricate weaving designs.

Satin and satin

Two more highly sought-after and popular weaves are satin and satin, which are characterized by the ratio of the rapport to the shift, represented by the fraction R/S. The weft and warp threads are entwined less frequently than in plain weaves. This is the process that gives the fabric’s front surface its shine and smoothness.

Satin fabrics are primarily made of weft threads on the front side. Satin is a common example of the group; it is a resilient and wear-resistant fabric made from double-weave threads created via fiber twisting technology.

A satin weave is a variation of satin that is made in the same way but with more warp threads on the front. By using four or more warp threads, the weft threads are brought to the front side using this technique. With the use of technology, you can obtain silky, satin-shiny fabrics. The fabric is lightweight, slick, and strong. The edges have a tendency to crumble when sewing.

Materials like satin, baize, elastic, satin, various draperies, suit and dress fabrics, crepe satin, lining, and corset materials are all produced using the satin-satin weave.

Twill

The twill overlap method is used to create fabrics with a diagonal rib that has an angle of inclination depending on the shift. It is at a 45-degree angle. One, two, or three threads perform an asymmetric shift during the weaving process.

Traditionally, twill fabrics are made with the rib running from left to right, or from top to bottom. Additionally, there are fabrics that go the other way. It’s a reverse twill weave technique.

The following characteristics of twill-woven fabrics are evident: density, which is higher than that of other primary weaves and results in greater thickness and weight; stretchability, particularly diagonally; and soft drape. They are not as strong as other types, but they are smooth and abrasion-resistant. However, this is not a deal-breaker.

Materials include twill, lining, and a blend of semi-silk and semi-wool.

The broad oblique stripes on reinforced twill contribute to the material’s increased resistance to wear. This is the process used to make tartan, boston, cheviot, fustian, gabardine, etc.

There are twill-woven fabric subtypes. These comprise the assortment of woven materials.

Broken

A fabric with a herringbone pattern is called broken twill. The usage of reverse twill weave distinguishes this kind. Fabric examples include chevrons and different kinds of materials for dresses and suits.

With a shift

A twill subtype with a shift is an altered form of broken. It is created by drawing comparisons with it, but with a change in rapport along the weft or warp. It is employed in the creation of gribuson. Weaving done this way is known as reverse shifted. Based on twill, it is made with a rapport to shift ratio of ¼; 2/2; 2/3.

Rhombus

The foundation for producing rhombus fabrics is twill weaves with a ¼; 2/2 shift ratio. They go by the names losange or cross-shaped as well. A mixture of diamonds in varying sizes creates the fabric’s texture. Examples include clothing and decorations.

Complex

Elastic and highly-strengthened, complex or quilted twill is distinguished by the presence of relief stripes with varying widths. Based on a rapport of 1/2, it is made. Decorative and clothing materials are two examples.

Other twill patterns include curvilinear (which changes the angle of the rib), zigzag (which has a variable slope of the warp and weft threads), and shadow (which has a transition of the shadow). Fabric examples include dress and ornamental items.

Anyone interested in fabrics, whether for crafts, upholstery, or clothing, must comprehend the various types of weaving. The fundamental weaving methods will be covered in this article, along with an explanation of how each one produces different textures and patterns in fabric. Readers will find it easy to recognize and comprehend the most popular weaving styles used in textiles today thanks to the simple diagrams that will go along with the descriptions to help visualize the processes.

Structural

Derivatives of the principal structural types with varying thread thicknesses are included. The thickness of the warp or weft is doubled or tripled in order to produce a relief or pattern. The fabric is sturdy and soft despite its structure. The indications of stiffness can change depending on where the fibers used came from.

Reps

Materials made from basic (linen) interlacing are referred to as reps. Three groups comprise the material: half rep, weft rep, and main rep. Which thread produces the thickening determines this division.

On the surface of the rep, a transverse rib forms; on the fabric made from the weft rep weaving, a longitudinal rib does.

Weft and main half-reps are both possible. Prolureps technology uses rapports with overlays of different sizes.

This process is used to make faydeshin, flannel made from raw cotton materials, wool suitable for dresses and suits, silk, and cotton rayon.

Rogozhka

The rogozhka is another member of the simple weave subspecies. The reinforcement of the weft and warp in the rapport results in the production of overlapping threads. The fabrics’ surface is structured with big squares that alternate in a checkerboard design. Typically, Oxford and Dvunitka are used to represent Rogozhka.

Twill

Twill is a fabric made from twill weaving, in which there is a 2/2 ratio between the weft and warp threads. The material is unique in that twisted threads are utilized during the manufacturing process. Its history is linked to Scotland, where the need to produce warm clothing that shields against chilly winds drove the production of the item.

The fabric is expertly colored, maintaining the vibrancy of the hue. During the Duke of Windsor’s reign, people mistook its name for tweed. Additionally, the qualities of these two textiles are comparable. Although cotton fibers were once used to make twill, mixed options are now more popular.

It is composed of polyester, elastane, and cotton (twill-satin) blended together (twill-stretch). The fabrics shine noble and have a textured surface.

Crepe

The utilization of combined weaves forms the foundation of crepe fabric production technology. The material’s surface has a texture with fine grains. The basis for the thread overlap is the plain in different configurations. Thus, more overlaps dispersed in a specific sequence.

Single or grouped crepe overlaps are possible. There are choices made with different technologies. Fabric examples include crepe de chine, crepe satin, and crepe chiffon.

Crepe fabrics are not only aesthetically pleasing and durable, but they are also simple to sew. The cut’s edge does not crumble. Products don’t stretch or distort; they hold their shape well.

Diagonal

A fabric made from twill weaving is called diagonal. There is a tiny, even rib on the face that is positioned 45 degrees diagonally.

Dense materials have the following qualities: practicality, shape retention in the product, and resistance to tearing and abrasion. The fabric is durable, stretches diagonally, and does not shrink after washing.

Waffle

Waffle fabric is a type of textured textile that is used to make home textiles. It has a relief pattern that resembles recessed cells with sides. Based on a ¼ repeat diamond-shaped twill weave.

Has a massaging effect, perfectly absorbs moisture, and leaves no lint on the surface being wiped. composed of cotton or, less frequently, linen fibers.

Type of Weaving	Description
Plain Weave	A simple and durable weave where the weft thread crosses over and under each warp thread alternately. Commonly used in fabrics like cotton and linen.
Twill Weave	Features a diagonal pattern created by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads, then under two or more. This weave is strong and often used in denim and wool fabrics.
Satin Weave	Characterized by a smooth and shiny surface, achieved by floating the weft thread over several warp threads before passing under one. Often used for silk and satin fabrics.
Basket Weave	Similar to plain weave but uses two or more threads together, creating a checkerboard effect. This weave is flexible and often used in canvas and upholstery fabrics.

Examining the various weaving patterns demonstrates the complex artistry involved in the creation of fabric. Whether it’s satin, twill, or plain weaving, each method adds special qualities to the material that change its look, feel, and durability.

Knowing these weaving techniques makes it easier to choose the appropriate fabric for a given use, whether it’s luxurious satin for an evening gown or robust denim for jeans. The choice of weave affects the fabric’s appearance, feel, and functionality in daily use.

Understanding the intricacies of weaving enables one to select fabrics with greater knowledge and precision, guaranteeing that the material fulfills the intended design and purpose.

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No. 182 Fundamentals of fabric production technology. Weaving weaves and their influence on the appearance of products.