Wild silk fabric – what is it: features, types, pros and cons

The intriguing fabric known as wild silk provides a special fusion of strength and beauty. Wild silk, in contrast to its cultivated counterpart, is made by silkworms in their native environment, producing fibers with unique textures and appearances. The distinctive imperfections of wild silk are caused by this natural process, which makes each piece of cloth genuinely unique.

You can better appreciate the allure and adaptability of wild silk if you are aware of its characteristics. There is a lot to learn about this amazing material, from how it is harvested to the various varieties that are readily available. Considering wild silk for apparel, home décor, or other purposes, there are numerous options available to suit different tastes and preferences.

Wild silk, like any fabric, has advantages and disadvantages. When determining whether this is the best option for your needs, it’s critical to consider these factors. We’ll go into detail in this post about what makes wild silk unique, the kinds available, and the benefits and drawbacks to be aware of.

Feature Description
Origin Wild silk comes from silkworms that live in natural environments.
Texture Coarser and less uniform compared to cultivated silk.
Types Tussar, Eri, and Muga are common types of wild silk.
Pros Strong, durable, and more environmentally friendly.
Cons Less smooth and shiny, may have natural imperfections.

Description / And why is it wild?

The identity of wild silk will become apparent upon comprehending the fibers’ source. The Bombixmori mulberry silkworm is a domesticated species of caterpillar whose cocoons provide raw materials used in textile production. A class of materials known as "mulberry" are composed of these threads.

"Chesucha" is the name for wild silk. It differs from traditional fabric in that the raw material comes from an uncultivable silkworm. The natural environments of caterpillars are used to gather raw materials for the textile industry. The night moth’s larvae are found in Korea, China, and India. Cocoons are gathered by hand. The caterpillars do not perish after separating the fibers, making the raw material obtained in a humane manner.

The length of the thread in wild silkworm cocoons is one of their distinguishing characteristics. It has a 1400 m reach. cream or amber-colored threads that are a little bit coarser and thicker than mulberry silkworm threads. This is because of their heightened power.

Dense and soft to the touch, wild silk boasts a matte, subdued sheen. Although the material is resistant to forms and drapes well, it is difficult to work with and needs careful handling. The material "breathes," exhibits high hygroscopicity, and provides a cooling sensation in the sweltering weather. This textile produces pleasant, comfortable products for the body.

Three primary varieties of wild silk exist:

  1. Muga is a rare expensive fabric. The name in translation means "amber-golden", this is the color of the cocoon of the silkworm Antheraea assamensis. The natural color of the fabric is golden. The fabric is several times more expensive than classic types of silk. Thin, durable material is very durable. Over the years, its shine becomes better. Textiles are produced in India (Assam state).
  2. Eri is a fabric made from the threads of the silkworm Samiaсynthia ricini, which feeds on the leaves of the castor tree. The peculiarity of this type is that the fibers are not unwound, but spun. Obtaining raw materials is similar to cotton processing technology. The fabric is made in combination with cotton or wool. Soft, villous fabric in everyday life was called "the silk of the poor" due to the low cost.
  3. Tussah or tussar is a wild silk from the fibers of the silkworm Antheraea mylitta and Anthera caproylei species. The color of the threads is cream-colored. The fabric is somewhat thicker and coarser than ordinary silk. This group also includes material from the threads of the oak silkworm Antheraea proyeli, which are distinguished by their fineness.

Subtleties of production

Making wild silk in stages:

  1. Manual collection of cocoons.
  2. Removal of impurities.
  3. Soaking and drying.
  4. Combing or spinning of fibers.
  5. Thread twisting.
  6. Bleaching or dyeing.

Characteristics of production: the raw materials are acquired humanely, in contrast to the technique used to obtain the fibers of cultivated silkworms. Either the threads are spun from the filler, cutting the cocoon, or they are twisted and treated with steam. In this instance, caterpillars or butterflies do not perish.

Table with characteristics

Key characteristics of tussock silk:

Characteristics Indicators
Type of raw material Natural animal origin
Types of fibers Wild silk
Tactile properties Dense, durable, heavy fabric, pleasant to the touch
Method of weaving Simple smooth and satin
Purpose of fabric Blouse, dress, interior, underwear
Purpose of fibers As a filler for pillows and blankets, yarn for knitting
Durability High
Dust capacity Average
Shedding along the edge cut High
Density average, g./m2 150
Standard width of fabrics, cm. 137, 140
Water resistance Low
Hygroscopicity, % 13 – 18
Moisture absorption rate High
Air permeability High
Vapor permeability Optimal
Ability to accumulate static electricity Moderate
Elasticity Average
Drapability Good
Wrinkle resistance High
Dyeing methods Bleached, plain-dyed, printed fabrics
Manufacturer India, China, Korea, Germany, Italy
Standardization GOST 28253 – 89
Price From 1390 ₽/meter and up

In contrast to conventional silk, wild silk fabric is a distinctive, organic textile made from the silk produced by wild silkworms. It has a rougher, more rustic look. This fabric is a versatile option for apparel and home décor because it comes in a variety of types, each with unique characteristics. Although wild silk is more durable and produced in an environmentally friendly manner than cultivated silk, it has certain disadvantages as well, like being less smooth and more difficult to dye. Knowing these characteristics enables one to choose wild silk wisely for various applications.

Pros and cons

Cutting must be done precisely because erroneously placed seams can leave needle marks that detract from the product’s appearance;

Types of manufactured materials

The fibers from wild silkworms are used as bedding filler and to make yarn for knitting and weaving.

Materials

Wild silkworm threads are used to make dense textiles. Silk fabric is used to make curtains, drapes, bed linens, summer clothing, and upholstery for furniture. Materials types by composition: 100% natural, blended with cotton, linen, wool, and viscose fibers.

Shantung, or chesucha, is a rustling material resembling taffeta. denser than ordinary silk. It drapes, has a rough surface, and maintains its shape well.

Dupion is a 100% silk fabric that is mostly used inside. This material is used to make drapes and curtains. In direct sunlight, the fabric is prone to fading.

Filler

The density of filling made of silk fibers is 170, 300, and 340 g/m2. used to make pillows and blankets for various seasons.

It is elastic, silky, and sustainable. produces the ideal microclimate and has the capacity to provide coolness in hot weather and heat retention in winter.

Application

Wild silk is used to make the following items:

  • women"s and children"s dresses, sundresses;
  • shirts, blouses, shirts;
  • jackets, suits;
  • skirts, trousers;
  • bed and underwear;
  • trench coats, windbreakers;
  • bedspreads;
  • tablecloths;
  • curtains, drapes;
  • decorative pillows.

Robust textiles are employed in the production of furniture upholstery and covers. Silk can be used to decorate interior spaces because of its attractive appearance.

Care

Products made of silk need to be handled carefully. The manufacturer’s detailed recommendations are listed on the label or tag. Certain fabrics can only be dry cleaned; they cannot be washed.

When necessary, use specific products (if washing is permitted). It is best to wash your hands in water that is no hotter than 40 degrees.

When rinsing, mix vinegar into the water to prevent shedding. It is not advised to squeeze out silk goods. Things are hung up to dry in their erect state.

In the "Silk" mode, ironing is done from the inside out.

Crucial! Certain textiles need to be kept safe from moths.

Compared to regular silk, wild silk fabric is a distinctive, natural textile with a certain allure. For those looking for something really unique in their clothing or home décor, it’s a favorite due to its asymmetrical texture and rich, earthy colors. Whether it’s used for exquisite draperies or opulent clothing, wild silk infuses daily life with a hint of the beauty of nature.

The qualities of this fabric, like its breathability and durability, combine to make it both attractive and useful. When sourced ethically, it can be a more sustainable option and is more resilient than cultivated silk. But not everyone may like the coarser texture, and maintaining its quality can require more attention.

For those who value its inherent flaws and the tales they tell, wild silk is still a popular material despite these difficulties. Because of this fabric’s ability to transport the wearer to a more natural, raw elegance, every item made with it is genuinely unique.

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Sergey Litvinov

I have been working in the field of textile art for over 20 years. I am passionate about textile design and create unique things inspired by traditions and modern trends. In my articles, I talk about how you can use fabrics to create unique and stylish things with your own hands.

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