The materials you use when sewing or modifying clothing have a big impact on how it turns out in terms of appearance and feel. Interlining is a frequently disregarded but crucial component in the creation of clothing. The material sandwiched between the layers of the lining and outer fabric to add warmth, structure, and support is called interlining. Even though it won’t be seen in the completed product, its existence has a significant impact on how well clothes fit and retain their shape.
Interlining materials come in a variety of forms and are intended for distinct uses. Some, like those in collars or cuffs, are designed to add stiffness, while others are meant to add insulation or softness. Making the correct interlining choice for your project is crucial because it can impact everything from the garment’s durability to its appearance.
Enhance my writing ability by applying the appropriate type of interlining in the right places to make my sewing projects shine. This post will discuss the various types of interlining materials, their typical applications, and how to choose the one that best suits your requirements.
- What is interlining
- Material production and its characteristics
- Types of interlining by processing method
- Adhesive interlining
- Non-adhesive interlining
- Thread-stitched interlining
- Flizofix (double-sided)
- Volumetric interlining
- Formband interlining adhesive strips
- Kantenband interlining
- Types of interlining by density
- Types of interlining material recommended for certain fabrics
- How to choose a non-woven lining for a fabric
- Pros and cons of non-woven fabric
- Tips for working with interlining material
- The gasket should correspond to the type of fabric
- How to cut interlining
- How to glue interlining
- The scope of use of nonsense
- How is non-woven fabric different from dublerin?
- Video on the topic
- What to choose: interlining or interlining – what is the difference and which is better? How to choose: rules and recommendations.
- Materials science. Choosing interlinings.
- Types of adhesive materials |TIM_hm|
- A review of adhesive materials. How to choose interlining, interlining, adhesive edges?
- Stabilizers and interlining materials
What is interlining
Within the sewing industry, the term "interlining" is widely used. This is the term for the interlining adhesive material that is used to give products or clothing parts the proper shape when sewing them together and in various handicrafts.
The German business Vlieseline, which has been manufacturing various kinds of premium interlining materials for many years, is linked to the term "interlining" through its trademark of the same name. Each distinct variety is simultaneously identified by a combination of a Latin letter and a specific set of numbers.
The term "interlining" has gained widespread usage over time. Generally speaking, it is a collective term for all kinds of lining materials, initially manufactured for the Vlieseline brand’s assortment before spreading throughout the textile industry.
However, interlining is a particular kind of lining material that is created by pressing cellulose fibers into a non-woven fabric. There isn’t a transverse or shared thread in it.
The white, translucent fabric is incredibly light. It has a paper-like texture. It has a coating of adhesive that changes color at high temperatures. This characteristic is used to reinforce clothing components during sewing or repair.
Material production and its characteristics
The fibers used to make interlining are cellulose. It is essentially the same document. In contrast, the interlining material’s fibers are arranged in a specific order rather than in a chaotic manner.
They are pressed to give the fabric strength. Synthetic components are added to the material for the same reason as well as for increased stiffness, elasticity, and wear resistance. Typically, polyester.
This material’s composition is semi-synthetic, consisting of glue, polyester, and viscose cellulose fibers. 100% viscose or 100% polyester may occasionally be indicated in the composition line on the label. appears to be a translucent fabric that is light and fluffy. It looks and feels a lot like paper.
By structure, the non-woven material resembles paper. Density: typically between 20 and 60 g/m^2.
- stretches in the transverse direction, but not very much – when cutting, it is recommended to cut along the grain;
- the surface of the fabric, covered with glue, slightly shines;
- does not crumble along the cuts and edges;
- does not shrink when washed, retains its shape when wet;
- the material is hygroscopic, but this property manifests itself differently in different types of lining;
- the fabric is lightweight and breathable;
- does not fade;
- the degree of wrinkling depends on the density of the material: the denser it is, the more it creases and wrinkles;
- during dry cleaning, the properties of the backing material do not change.
When the pressing process is carried out in a dry state, the nonwoven material interlining can be unglued and glued when the cellulose fibers are evenly impregnated with an adhesive composition, creating a continuous film or discrete dots.
Interlining comes in a variety of forms, including bulk, water-soluble, dotted, formband, glueless, double-sided, and thread-stitched.
The fabric is sold by the meter and is produced in rolls of 100 meters, with a web width ranging from 30 to 150 cm. Adhesive interlining strips are made in spools as well as meters.
Natural lining available in beige or white. However, based on its intended use and location of use, it can be dyed any color. In other words, the color of the coloring pigment needs to match the color of the fabric that will be copied.
Types of interlining by processing method
Adhesive interlining
There are two types of this kind of lining.
Dotted is one of them. flexible, dense, and reasonably light material with good shape retention. The infrequent dotted application of glue to the fabric’s surface is what gives it these qualities. This kind is mostly used for light, airy textiles like chiffon and silk.
The second kind of fabric has a continuous layer of adhesive mass applied evenly over its whole surface. It is distinguished by a higher degree of rigidity.
Using an iron, the adhesive lining is fused to the main fabric.
Non-adhesive interlining
The interlining fabric is not treated with an adhesive composition during production. The fabric may be water-soluble or tear-off depending on its type. After use, both kinds can be effortlessly taken off of the primary fabric.
Depending on the type, the interlining is taken out of the final product by either carefully removing the tear-off type from the base or dipping it in warm water for a few minutes, where the lining will dissolve.
This characteristic is particularly crucial for needlewomen’s and embroiderers’ work. Furthermore, the fabric is fixed by the material, which keeps it from stretching or creasing. Threads lie more uniformly. Additionally, the work comes out to be more appealing and accurate overall.
For added strength, tear-off glueless interlining is attached. Fabric that is water-soluble is typically used to temporarily fasten it. For instance, when utilizing the Crazy Wool technique, one can create unique garments from non-woven knitwear without the need for knitting.
Thread-stitched interlining
The method used to attach this kind of quilted interlining to the fabric is to sew it with threads parallel to the edge. Because of the interlining fabric, the material drapes well and is more resilient at the folds.
Flizofix (double-sided)
This interlining material differs in that the fabric has two adhesive surfaces instead of just one. They help make appliques, adjust the hems of skirts and pants, and join two pieces to make toys without sewing.
Volumetric interlining
The thick, soft material has an appearance similar to synthetic padding. but is different from it in terms of volume and adhesive base. utilized in the production of bags, clutches, and purses with quilting.
Formband interlining adhesive strips
This is a thin adhesive interlining material that is 12 mm wide and soft and elastic bias tape with a chain stitch that fixes the tape’s shape and extends 4 mm from the edge.
It is used to stabilize rounded and oblique cuts in products made of elastic and knitted fabrics, as well as to fix product parts that are cut at an angle of 45 degrees rather than parallel to the grain. The primary fabric and the product’s processed area do not constrict when the shape is fixed with a soft tape; they maintain their original elastic properties.
Formband is available in two color options: graphite and white. It can be bought in reels or by measuring out the required amount in meters at specialty stores.
Kantenband interlining
An additional variety of sticky strips. Also referred to as adhesive edge or "dolevichok." Cantenband is used to stabilize and strengthen straight and oblique cuts that shouldn’t stretch within the final product.
Its construction with shared threads sets it apart from Formomband’s adhesive strips. However, from thin non-woven as well. The typical strip width is 12 mm. However, there are stripes and a 20 mm width. The generated lanes in bobbins or for the meter are white and graphite in color.
Using cantenbanda is particularly useful when handling loose, flowy fabrics. Adhesive stripes affixed to the seam allowances reinforce the side and shoulder seams, the allowances beneath the fastener, stabilize and prevent the cuts from stretching, provide the cut lines, and allow the cuts to take on the desired shape.
Apart from Formmband and non-wovenet cantenband, there exist alternative varieties of adhesive stripes. But the most well-known are these. Sewing is the more common use for them. The two gaskets carry out nearly identical duplicate tasks. However, their use’s impact and range of applications still differ somewhat.
The first kind of adhesive strips is used to stabilize the cut lines and processed areas of parts for their dependable fixation, which is the primary distinction between cantenband and formband. In other words, so that they stop stretching. Formband actually serves the same purpose, but it also preserves the elasticity of the product’s cuts and the areas where the strip is glued.
If ready-made adhesive strips are not available, you can make a comparable tape by cutting thin adhesive interlining on the bias at a 45-degree angle. Similar to how bias tape is typically cut onto fabric.
Types of interlining by density
Using interlining material is done so that your sewing will turn out as nice as possible. This calls for the use of specialized adhesive strips and a variety of adhesive interlining materials, each designed for a specific type of fabric. And the task will be finished if the selection is accurate. It will be feasible to reinforce certain sections, maintain the product’s shape, and stabilize the seams.
The highest density interlining is used when replicating products made from thick and coarse fabrics. Choose the thinnest kind of interlining for lightweight fabrics. Strict adherence to the interlining’s density and fabric type, however, is crucial. If not, the improper material choice will cause the final product to be deformed, ruining the item.
Types of interlining material recommended for certain fabrics
- Interlining H 180 is a thin, soft interlining material that is suitable for well-draped, lightweight fabrics for sewing dresses and blouses. This can be viscose, silk, chiffon.
- Interlining H 200 is a soft material, but already holds its shape well enough. Suitable for duplicating parts in dense cotton materials for sewing lightweight jackets, dresses, blouses. This is twill, madapolam.
- Interlining G 405 and interlining H 410 – both types of interlining retain the shape of the product well. However, G 405 is softer than H 410, which is additionally stabilized by longitudinal threads. Both types are considered universal. Suitable for denim, velour, flannel – that is, fabrics from which jackets, coats, trousers are sewn.
- Interlining F 220 – white lining. Resistant to high temperatures and boiling. Suitable for dense, boil-resistant linen fabrics.
- Interlining G 785 – a woven adhesive lining, bi-elastic, light and soft. Used for duplicating the shelves of coats and jackets made of lightweight fabric and for strengthening the facings and collars.
The following is indicated by the letter designations used in the marking of different kinds of interlining material:
- "H" – very thin fabric intended for duplicating lightweight fabrics.
- "G" – also quite thin and flexible material, which is used for different types of fabric, as well as for strengthening collars, pocket entry lines, coat shelves and jackets.
- "E" – dense lining for suede, leather, leatherette.
- “F” – non-woven fabric resistant to boiling.
How to choose a non-woven lining for a fabric
Skilled seamstresses "by eye" decide which kind of non-woven backing is appropriate for a given fabric. If you are not very experienced, you can start by ironing a few pieces of different interlining material to see how they work on your fabric. The best choice will be the one where the interlining on the front side is least obvious. Using a ready-made table of interlining materials for the fabric and the product’s purpose is the third method.
An essential fabric used in clothing to give it shape, structure, and support is interlining. It is available in different varieties, each appropriate for specific materials and uses, such as strengthening waistbands and stiffening collars. Selecting the ideal interlining will guarantee that your finished piece feels and looks well-made by taking into account the particular requirements of your project as well as the fabric you’re working with.
Pros and cons of non-woven fabric
The best place to keep tabs on non-woven fabric’s benefits and drawbacks is through user reviews.
When it comes to benefits, the material’s ease of use is typically its greatest asset. Working with it doesn’t require any special skills and is fairly easy. Additionally, the variety of non-woven interlinings available offers a quick fix for a number of sewing-related issues.
The material’s reasonable price (20–40 rubles per meter) is listed in the same list. In addition to practicality and the capacity to use interlining as a backup when sewing clothes, it can also be used for clothing repairs, which can be completed by anyone, even the person who is not familiar with a sewing machine.
The following are listed in the reviews as some of the drawbacks, which the content does have:
High likelihood of interlining wear and tear and deformation from improper product care; when worn, it may break at the folds and wrinkle like cardboard;
The tendency of a high-density lining combined with a continuous adhesive layer to reduce flexibility and increase rigidity in the product. However, materials with dotted glue applications don’t always adhere well, hold less well, and occasionally need more threading to secure them.
Tips for working with interlining material
A collection of unique fabrics used for needlework and sewing are referred to as interlining material in the sewing lexicon. This includes different kinds of interlining, edges, and trims; furniture interlining, or duplicating spunbond non-woven material, is made by spinning molten polymer into a non-woven material; and soft, long-lasting synthetic padding made of adhesive is utilized to stuff bags and backpacks.
The fact that non-woven fabric, spunbond, and adhesive synthetic padding all have an adhesive layer on only one side unites them. Conversely, fleecefix is a double-sided duplicating material that joins the fabric’s top and bottom layers.
Made of adhesive threads, cobwebs and meshes are also classified as double-sided adhesive materials. The differences between adhesive web and non-woven fabric are readily apparent.
Non-woven fabric is composed of more than just the adhesive threads that make up the web; it also contains polyester, viscose, and glue fibers. It is also a more versatile material with a range of characteristics.
It is obvious from the term "pasting materials" that each one of them needs to be positioned in between the product’s main fabric layers. Most frequently, adhesive interlining materials are positioned in between the product’s lining and outer fabric. It varies from time to time. Nevertheless, the gasket is permanently fixed and stays in place. besides the tear-off and water-soluble interlining, which is auxiliary. When work is done, they come off or dissolve in water.
If you follow the instructions for ironing various interlinings according to the type of fabric, sewing work using adhesive interlining material will result in an impeccable finished product. This is particularly true for coats, jackets, and other items where a well-made pattern alone is obviously insufficient.
When clothing parts are duplicated, both the product and each of its component pieces take on shape and hold it throughout use. This processing keeps the armholes and neck from stretching, prevents things from becoming a shapeless rag, and keeps cuffs and collars from thinking.
When using pre-made patterns, certain parts of the part are duplicated by the gasket, or the part layout is colored highlighted. These are typically the specifics of the collar, cuffs, coat or jacket selection and side, belt, valves, lightning allowances, and bodice in dresses-bud. Elasticated and knitted clothing has reinforced armholes and necklines.
The gasket should correspond to the type of fabric
When choosing adhesive gaskets for part duplication, consideration should be given to the thickness, density, and composition of the fabric being used. It goes without saying that the adhesive, which works great with thick coat fabrics, is inappropriate for use with thin silk or chiffon.
In actuality, though, it’s not always possible to locate a non-woven fabric that precisely matches the fabric in every way. In this situation, you should still choose a different duplicating material that will be most similar to the fabric by using your tactile sense and intuition.
How to cut interlining
The interlining material is cut in all parts perpendicular to the grain line. similar to the fabric’s duplicated sections. This particular rule applies particularly to fabrics that exhibit strong transverse stretching while maintaining longitudinal stability.
You must allow space for the seams when cutting pieces out of the interlining. Two millimeters or so less than the margins on the sections cut from the main cloth. Additionally, the interlining is marked with all required seam lines and markings.
How to glue interlining
Different types of interlinings have an adhesive layer that softens and becomes viscous when ironed at a specific temperature between 110 and 150 degrees. The manufacturer’s packaging will specify how hot the iron should be heated, how hard to press the adhesive layer of the pad into the fabric, and how long it will take. If you can’t find this information, you should choose a temperature of 130 degrees.
You can test the adhesive interlining on an extra piece of fabric before ironing it to a section of the main fabric. Additionally, assess the interlining’s ability to maintain its shape and whether it is securely attached to the fabric. The degree to which the chosen interlining material closely resembles the intended material type is also examined. Does the product’s front side bear evidence of the transition from the non-glued to the glued part?
Initial testing is always crucial. particularly for knitted fabrics, which vary in terms of surface roughness, density, composition, and texture. It’s critical to preserve the prior elasticity of these materials following dubbing. You can proceed with the main product if, after using thin interlining materials for dubbing, the knitwear has maintained its shape and flexibility.
You should use a lighter or thinner piece of paper when ironing cotton fabric. This will help glue the lining as carefully as possible and shield the iron surface from potential glue contamination that could seep through the thin material. The interlining is always ironed dry and not too hot, with the adhesive side facing the back of the fabric piece, without using the steam setting.
Fix the adhesion of the fabric and the lining by holding the iron for a short while on one or two areas of the workpiece to prevent the fabric from warping while ironing. Next, use just the iron’s tip to iron the entire piece while moving the iron slowly over it for 8 to 10 seconds.
In this instance, you have to make sure that, when you iron the fabric again, the melted adhesive mass does not adhere to the iron’s sole or get on the front of the fabric. It will become indestructible and cannot be taken out of the material.
After the gasket has been successfully glued to the fabric, the product’s details should be arranged on the table and allowed to cool for 30 minutes to allow the glue to solidify.
Adhesive strip usage is subject to certain guidelines.
The cantenband strip should be slightly shorter than the shoulder seam on the back, but it should still be the same length as the shelf’s shoulder cut. The hem won’t skew if you use it to strengthen the product’s bottom. It’s crucial to iron the cantenband interlining over the bottom hem line or the designated seam line every time.
Formband interlining strips are ironed along the seam line from above. They are used when it’s necessary to fix the cuts in parts, keep them from stretching, and preserve the product’s elasticity during further use. Additionally, the duplicate tape has notches where it rounds.
Markings and seam lines are transferred to the adhesive strips if needed. The formband strip’s narrower portion should rest on the allowance, and the chain seam should be positioned in line with the marked seam line. The duplicate tape is ironed along the cut to accomplish this.
The scope of use of nonsense
Flizelin is an all-purpose substance. It has been used in a number of fields. First and foremost, though, is the sewing industry, where it has evolved into a true "magic wand," streamlining the removal of abrasion and fabric deformation.
When creating new items, sewing together duplicate material gives the main material greater durability and gives clothing shape. In the process of fixing, numerous patches were substituted. All you have to do is fill the hole with interlining, glue it, and sweep it.
It turns out that interlining, both simple and adhesive, is used wherever fabric is worked with to enhance its qualities and appearance.
Large amounts of various edges and interlinings are used when sewing bulky outerwear, suits, and jackets. The sides, collars, and cuffs of clothing composed of light materials are typically reinforced.
However, interlining is not limited to the textile and sewing sectors. It is utilized to create a variety of coatings and packaging. Medical professionals use water-soluble interlining fabric as a dressing material.
Modern wallpaper composed of pressed cellulose on a non-woven basis is no surprise to anyone. Non-woven fabric painting is an additional application area. This unique fabric is used to cover a variety of surfaces, including walls and ceilings.
Non-woven fabric is a necessary component of handicrafts used to create a variety of accessories, plush toys, patchwork, quilts, leather goods, and fabric bags. Nowadays, not many handcrafts can be made without interlining materials.
If these are woven interlining materials, they may shrink and need to be decatized beforehand, just like any other natural fabric. If not, the product might eventually distort in the areas where non-detached interlining material was used for reinforcement. Adhesive non-woven semi-synthetic interlining does not shrink.
Jacket and raincoat fabrics are not replicated with adhesive interlining materials. However, non-adhesive material is used to strengthen certain details when necessary. Organza, for instance, works well for lightweight raincoats.
You can use non-adhesive interlining materials that are fixed in place of duplication with a mark to replicate details of wild silk clothing. Organza works well too. Ordinary silk garments can be lined with a thin, low-temperature interlining that can be glued "dry."
Soft jacket fabrics such as loden, boucle, and Chanel have intricate hand quilting or are reinforced with thin interlining that is stitched together. The fabric’s thickness stays the same in this instance. However, the fabric’s flexibility and plasticity are retained, giving the final product its shape stability.
The interlining material may occasionally need to be torn from previously duplicated fabric. For instance, because the fabric cannot, in theory, be replicated, or because the gasket was chosen incorrectly. This should not in any way harm the product if done correctly. Let’s examine the precise method for doing this by utilizing dense raincoat fabric as an example.
Iron the raincoat fabric first, starting from the front. The backup gasket’s adhesive will soften when heated. Next, carefully remove the adhesive by tearing it off. Next, use an ironing iron to iron the fabric to get rid of any glue that might still be there. Additionally, you might need to repeat this process multiple times, replacing the napkin with a fresh one each time. until the last bit of glue is gone from it.
How is non-woven fabric different from dublerin?
Cushioning materials are referred to differently in the sewing industry as "non-woven fabric" and "dublerin." Beginners are totally perplexed because both terms can refer to the same material or to entirely different kinds of lining.
The response to the query typically looks something like this:
- interlining is a cushioning adhesive non-woven material;
- dublerin is also a cushioning material and also adhesive, but on a woven basis.
There is, nevertheless, another way to understand what these terms mean. This material is referred to as adhesive interlining materials in professional sewing literature. But as we’ve already discovered, non-woven can also refer to any kind of padding, whether it’s woven or not. The phrase "non-woven fabric" acquires a broad definition in this way.
The word "dublerin" is sewing slang, and supporters of this version claim that it is most likely derived from the word "duplicate." And by this we not only mean the kind of cushioning material used here, but also how it is applied.
Duplication is a chance to give product parts more elasticity, guarantee the stability of their shape when finished items are being cared for, and prevent fabric from deforming and stretching while being worn. This occurs when adhesive interlinings are attached to clothing components either entirely or in individual sections.
For instance, a self-sewn blouse needs to be duplicated in order for the collar to retain its shape in the same manner as one purchased from a store. Iron the interlining if not.
Although this is merely a brand name or interlining, which is just slang, it is unlikely to be a major mistake to refer to any adhesive interlining materials as interlining. It’s comfortable and well-known.
Interlining Types | Uses & Selection Tips |
Woven Interlining | Ideal for structured garments like jackets; choose based on fabric weight. |
Non-Woven Interlining | Good for lightweight fabrics; pick a similar weight to the fabric for better results. |
Fusible Interlining | Easy to apply with heat; perfect for collars, cuffs, and waistbands. |
Sew-In Interlining | Best for delicate fabrics; choose when heat application may damage fabric. |
Anyone working with sewing or clothing construction needs to understand interlining. This material, which is frequently disregarded, is essential for providing fabric with the proper structure and durability, ensuring that garments keep their shape over time and look fantastic.
It is crucial to take into account the kind of fabric and the particular requirements of your project when selecting interlining. There is an interlining option out there that will work for you, whether you need something stronger for heavier materials or something lighter for delicate fabrics.
You may significantly improve the caliber of your sewing projects by learning about the various kinds of interlining and when to use them. A great garment can be elevated from a good one by adding a well-chosen interlining.