Types of kimono: from eternal classics to modern versions of traditional Japanese clothing

One of the most recognizable clothes in Japan is the kimono, which is a symbol of centuries of custom and cultural legacy. Its timeless style, suitable for both special ceremonies and daily wear, stems from its straightforward yet elegant design. However, there are many different styles of kimonos, each with a special meaning and function.

The kimono has changed over time to reflect contemporary fashions and way of life. While the classic renditions are still treasured today, newer interpretations exist that combine the old and the new. These contemporary kimonos offer new interpretations that appeal to today’s stylish people while preserving the spirit of the original design.

Examining the various kimono styles—from traditional to modern—reveals an engrossing trip through the rich textile history of Japan. The world of kimono has something to offer everyone, regardless of your preference for the utilitarian yukata or the ceremonial beauty of the furisode.

Type of Kimono	Description
Furisode	A formal kimono with long, flowing sleeves, often worn by young unmarried women.
Tomesode	A more subdued kimono with shorter sleeves, typically worn by married women at formal events.
Yukata	A casual, lightweight kimono made of cotton, often worn during summer festivals.
Houmongi	A semi-formal kimono with elegant designs, suitable for various occasions.
Komon	A casual kimono with small, repeating patterns, perfect for everyday wear.
Modern Kimono	Contemporary versions of traditional kimono, often with innovative designs and materials.

What is a Japanese kimono

The word "kimono" literally means "clothing" in Japanese. Furthermore, this term was originally used to describe any type of clothing, regardless of its intended use. But only a specific kind of clothing—which is eerily similar to a wrap-around robe with wide sleeves devoid of buttons and fasteners—became known by this name over time and was worn by Japanese men, women, and children.

The traditional Japanese kimono shape, developed over many centuries, is essentially unaltered today. The kimono also became the official national costume of Japan at some point.

A traditional kimono is a long, distinctively "T"-shaped garment that covers the ankles. It has straight seams, which define it. Collars and sleeves with varying widths are required elements. These, along with other elements of the ensemble, can reveal a lot about the kimono’s owner, his social standing, and the purpose of the dress.

For instance, girls of marriageable age wear kimonos with extremely long sleeves that reach almost the floor. Wearing something like this communicates to others, symbolically, that the girl is seeking a husband.

A kimono is more than simply a dress. This is actually a very intricate collection that is made up of numerous additional undergarments and outerwear pieces, unique shoes, and accessories.

What is included in a traditional kimono set

The obi, a broad, supple belt, is worn over the kimono. Either men or women may use it. Its typical dimensions are 60 cm in width and 3.65 to 9.6 meters in length. One of the primary characteristics in the set is this. It is worn over the kimono, multiple wraps around the body, and a complicated bow at the back secure it.

Except for joro, or "priestesses of love," who always tie a bow only in front, all women do this. These are not geisha; these are courtesans, exemplars of one of the oldest trades.

Married women tie their belts slightly differently than single girls do. The former knot the belt in a bow with the ends protruding. The latter also flattened the ends.

They typically wear one or more underdresses, or different types of kimono, as well as special underwear underneath their main top dress.

• Nagadzyuban (dzyuban) – a kimono-style undershirt that is in men"s and women"s clothing. It is worn to protect the silk outer kimono, which is difficult to care for, from contact with the body, from dirt and sweat.

• Sasoike and hadajuban are underwear in the form of wide bloomers and a thin shirt, which can also be connected to each other. They are worn by women under the nagajuban.
• Kosode is a kimono with short sleeves from a set of underwear.
• Hakama is wide pleated trousers in the form of a skirt with very wide, sewn or divided legs. This type of clothing was traditionally worn by men: horsemen, samurai, fighters of some types of martial arts, Shinto priests, in an informal setting. Recently, women have also begun to wear hakama. For example, when participating in graduation ceremonies.

• Hiyoki is a type of under kimono. This item of clothing is today used only in clothing for formal events, such as weddings.

The following outerwear goes well with the kimono:

• Haori is a jacket that is worn over a kimono and secured with a special cord called haori-himo as a belt. A kimono with a haori looks more formal. It is worn by both men and women. Although haori used to be included only in men"s sets. The lining of a modern men"s haori is painted. Women"s models are made of patterned fabric and are longer than men"s. Samurai haori are distinguished by their special cut and a small slit at the bottom of the back.

• Katagina is a cape made of thick fabric without sleeves, but with starched shoulders. It was worn over a formal samurai suit, which gave them a more impressive look.

• Obi-ita (Mae-ita) is a thin board covered with fabric that women wear under the obi to maintain its shape.
• Datejime is a thin belt used for the same purpose as the obi-ita.
• Koshihimo – special strings, laces, ties, thin belts, with the help of which the kimono is fixed during putting on.
• Kansasi (kanzashi) are all kinds of jewelry, hairpins, pins, hairpins, combs, which are worn in the hairstyle provided for a kimono. The motifs and patterns that craftsmen use to make such jewelry are often united by the general theme of the designs on the kimono.

Modern shoes would never be worn by a Japanese woman in a traditional costume. Special shoes complete the traditional ensemble:

• Zori – leather or fabric sandals that resemble ordinary flip-flops in appearance. They are worn by men and women. They can be decorated or very simple.

• Geta are wooden sandals most often worn with yukato kimonos.

• Waraji – sandals woven from straw, worn mainly by monks.

• Okobo – high shoes worn mainly by geisha or maiko girls. It is very difficult to move in them – you can only take very small steps. And it"s easy to fall.

• Tabi – a model of low socks with the big toe separated from the rest. They are often worn with Dzori.

The story of the kimono

Archaeologists’ discoveries suggest that the first Japanese kimonos first appeared in the fifth century. They resembled Hanf, the traditional clothing of China, quite a bit. The Chinese dynasty of Tan’s clothing is thought to have served as the model for the Japanese kimono.

Kimono gained its final, modern look during the Heyan period (794–1192), which was also the height of fashion and the emergence of Japanese aesthetic culture. This look has persisted ever since.

They started using a new technique called the "direct cut method" for sewing clothing, which does not limit movement. And for the Japanese, who spend a lot of time sitting on the floor, this is extremely significant.

From a solid canvas without fitting in the figure, the kimono started to sew and continues to this day in the standard identical size. Subsequently, the girls adjust the kimono to their height and size by tucking and folding it with strings, clothespins, and different garters. And they perform it expertly.

This allows the ensemble to fit any figure and be worn in any type of weather. a kimono composed of multiple thick layers is appropriate for winter, and it can be made from thin linen material in the summer.

Specially made fabric for kimonos had the necessary width and length to make it easy to cut and sew. All that was left to do was cut the remaining piece of fabric into multiple rectangles and join them. Only by hand were garments sewed and embroidered.

They were sewn with big, loose stitches so that the layers of clothes wouldn’t tangle together and the kimono would wrinkle less. This was also done because the kimono was torn apart before washing. then sewed once more.

Of course, this is no longer necessary because of contemporary fabrics and dirt-removal techniques. Though this washing technique has been maintained in some areas. Furthermore, it’s not always followed that all sewing must be done by hand and not with a sewing machine.

It is evident that such clothing, which is made of delicate natural fabric and is hand-sewn and embroidered, is expensive and that not all citizens of the nation, particularly those from lower socioeconomic classes, could afford a silk kimono. Most Japanese people wore recycled clothing or rented kimonos. The Japanese were always extremely cautious with them.

An antique kimono’s sewing material is never thrown away. The Japanese have always adhered to the ancient custom of never discarding and reusing the fabric used to make an antique kimono, which dates back many centuries.

It is repurposed for sewing many items, such as short haori robes, kid’s clothing, purses, flower-adorned hairpins (kanzashi), mending items with matching hues, and creating temari, a traditional Japanese ball-embroidery technique, which serves as a foundation for weaving strips made from torn-up old kimonos.

Some even succeeded in thread-by-thread unraveling the old material, from which they woven a new fabric suitable for men’s obis.

The kimono became the primary garment of choice for Japanese people of all social classes, including men, women, and children, around the sixteenth century. And the next few centuries saw the explosive growth and peak of Japanese textile art.

But the 19th century saw significant changes in Japanese society, culture, and fashion. Western attire started to appear everywhere. The Japanese were required to participate in the service and appear in public. And by the mid-1900s, wearing European attire had become the standard.

The Japanese kimono transformed the status of regular clothing into a cult item for noteworthy occasions in society and life. The most formal attire for a married woman, for instance, was the narrow-sleeved kimono. In this instance, the family coat of arms is used to adorn the back and sleeves. A kimono with one large sleeve indicates loneliness in the wearer.

These days, historical sets with an entire set of additions and accessories—of which there may be up to 12 pieces, particularly in women’s traditional kimonos—rarely find use in daily life. Such full sets were still worn by geishas and brides. And not very often even then.

In an ensemble with so many layers, it can be challenging to choose each component precisely so that everything flows together. Furthermore, to place the entire burden on oneself. In everyday wear, they typically don one- or two-layered, simplified ensembles, occasionally paired with an imitation of a false collar.

The kimono, a representation of Japanese culture, has developed from its traditional origins to include a broad variety of styles, ranging from centuries-old classic designs to more recent iterations that combine cutting-edge design with classic elegance. Every style of kimono tells a tale, capturing the ideals, creativity, and traditions of many historical periods to create a distinctive outfit that is still relevant and innovative in the modern world.

What types of Japanese kimonos are there

Items of clothing that are commonly referred to as "kimono" have numerous alternative names, which the Japanese are well-versed in. A kimono’s cut, patterns, colors, and other design elements can reveal a lot about its owner.

Japanese clothing is traditionally separated into men’s and women’s categories. The robes worn by Japanese men and women vary in terms of cut, color, details, and usage of national symbols.

Men"s kimonos

Males typically dress in sets of dark matte material with family crests on the chest, back, and sleeves in subdued tones of black, blue, green, and brown. Printed clothing is acceptable, but only in casual settings.

A man’s suit can occasionally be enhanced by a hakama, or traditional haori jacket worn over a kimono, wide pants, or a skirt.

A man’s set is composed of five elements, always cut in a single shape, and comes with tabi and geta. Usually entirely sewn to the main portion of the outfit, the sleeves are shallow. Men who wear kimonos with few accessories don’t need assistance from others, in contrast to women who wear sets.

Just like a women’s kimono, a modern men’s kimono is available today in the size you require. Large kimonos are only problematic to make or purchase because they are typically made from a single roll of local fabric.

Women"s kimono

Compared to men’s sets, women’s are far more intricate and multi-layered. They are chosen based on the wearer’s age and social standing, as well as the occasion and season for which the garment is meant. This, along with the style, model, fabric, and color, determine the semantic load that a woman’s kimono carries when interacting with others.

An essential component of a woman’s kimono is color. Young girls without children can afford more ostentatious attire, which is entirely embroidered with pastel-colored flowers like peach, blue, and pink. An ensemble in black with patterns on the sleeves and below the waist is standard for older women.

Everyday kimonos can be identified by their subtle, beige, brown, and greenish-colored patterns. For geishas, the brightest kimono models with a red lining are appropriate.

Children"s kimono

Children in Japan also dress traditionally. Kimonos are typically modified from an adult woman’s or man’s set for small children. A children’s robe with multiple colors, typically composed of quilted fabric, has a straightforward pattern. Older children sew outfits like adult models for special occasions. but typically in more vivid hues.

The most popular types of kimono

• Furisode – a set with wide, long sleeves, which in the Edo period were a way to express feelings and announce a girl"s readiness to get married. Such an outfit is worn by unmarried women and girls at weddings, at a coming-of-age ceremony, or at a tea ceremony. Such kimono is sewn from good quality silk in bright colors.

• Tomesode – a set for a married woman, intended for formal events. For example, a daughter"s wedding. Kimono is distinguished by narrower and shorter sleeves, elegant, simple patterns at knee level. Most often, such sets are sewn in traditional black with embroidery of five family crests on the back, sleeves, chest. Iro-tomesode – colored tomesode, which is less formal and strict.

• Homongi – women"s attire (regardless of social status), intended for formal events. It is sewn from a single-color fabric with the same print at the bottom of the hem, on the shoulders, on the sleeves.

• Iromuji is a simple type of less colorful and patterned kimono made of plain fabric of any color (except white and black) without any patterns. The exception is a colored print on the waist. Intended for any women. For example, for relatives of those who are getting married. In mature age, elegant shades are preferable.

• Tsukekage is a more restrained and modest analogue of the homongi kimono with a print at the bottom of the dress. It can be worn by all women at friends" weddings, tea ceremonies.

• Uchikake (uchikake) is an outfit decorated with brocade, which is intended for artists and brides. This kimono is longer than other varieties, often reaching the floor. It is not tied with an obi belt. White and red colors are used in bridal outfits, any color is allowed for artistic kimonos.

• Komon is an everyday kimono that can be worn in the city by everyone: men and women, regardless of social status. It is characterized by a small print that repeats throughout the garment. Kimono is made from wool, natural and artificial silk, polyester. This was the most common kimono dress in Japan until it was replaced by Western clothing.

• Susohiki/Hikizuri – kimono of dancers who perform Japanese traditional dances, and geishas. This is a very long dress, the skirt of which drags along the floor. The collar in this model is located lower than in a regular kimono.

• Shiromuku – an outfit intended for a bride at a traditional wedding. This is a very long white dress. All additional accessories are made in the same color.

• Mofuku – a black kimono. This is mourning clothing worn by women and men during funerals.

• Junihitoe – a complex and elegant type of expensive kimono worn by Japanese court ladies. The set consists of several layers of silk clothing. The lowest layer of the kimono is made of white silk. This type of traditional clothing is quite rare today. But such models can still be seen at festivals, in films, in museums, at some grand events in the Imperial House.

• Yukata is a type of kimono well known to foreigners. It is a light informal outfit for women and men made of natural fabrics of attractive colors: cotton, hemp, linen. It is intended for summer festivals, visits to hot springs, and is found in the clothing of employees of traditional Japanese hotels. In the past, traditional yukata was produced only in a pair of blue-white and white-black colors and was used as a robe after water procedures.

• Onsen-kimono is an informal type of kimono in the form of light robes that can be seen in Japan at hot springs, baths, and recreation areas. They are sewn from easy-to-care-for soft cotton. You can use a high-quality kimono onsen robe not only in public places, but also for relaxing at home and for personal use.

Symbols and meanings used in the design of kimono

The external design of a basic Japanese kimono is very important. This includes the color selection, pattern placement, material texture, specific clothing details, style, and extra accessories. All of this combined information reveals an individual’s age, gender, social standing, and cultural traits. This object, which appears to be utilitarian, actually has a deeper philosophical significance.

The master considered many subtleties when dying the threads for the canvas that the kimono was sewn from, which was typically done by hand using decoctions of plant juice or bark. For instance, the fit of the product on a person who would move with their body parts was considered when applying the pattern.

The reasons behind decorating an outfit, many of which originate in China, should be a reflection of the owner’s feelings and world, the season, and the events that the kimono will be worn for.

Wearing traditional attire was thought to bring good fortune and the gods’ blessing. For instance, a cherry blossom on a set represented a bountiful harvest and a cheerful disposition. You could wear a kimono like that all year long. Legend has it that seeing cranes—which are mentioned in numerous myths—living in the realm of the immortal birds will bring happiness, longevity, and good fortune.

The flower of the Japanese emperor is chrysanthemum. represents a bountiful harvest, a long life, comfort, happiness, and a lack of concern for outward glitter. The mandarin duck is a symbol of unwavering loyalty and unending love that appears on kimono fabrics. It is frequently used to decorate wedding attire.

The color of safflower is red. Young girls are most likely to choose sets in this color. According to Japanese aesthetics, purple is the color of unending love. A symbol of grace and longevity is the stork. The Phoenix bird embodies both femininity and is associated with dragons, which are considered to be masculine. Wedding sets frequently use these kinds of patterns.

Traditional graphic symbols, such as spots, stripes, and ribbons of various colors that represented good fortune and purification—as well as the potential to ward off evil spirits—have been employed in Japanese textile art since ancient times. On the kimono’s surface, they create smooth, rhythmically swaying lines that divide the plane into repeating patterns, creating intricate structures and optical illusions.

Philosophical meaning is embedded even in the ability to fold a kimono in a strictly defined way. If the ritual was not violated, the result will be a rectangle. And this seems to indirectly indicate that a person who puts on clothes properly and then folds them correctly strives to think correctly in life and do the right things. In addition, it is also a sign of cultivated neatness.

What fabric are modern kimonos made from, cutting features

Cotton, satin, and silk are the materials typically used to sew Japanese kimonos. significantly less frequently polyester. Naturally, natural, premium silk is the best option. One type of this material is dense and heavy dupont silk, but it is also soft and beautifully shiny.

Its threads are spun from two silkworm cocoons simultaneously using antiquated technology, just like centuries ago. In this instance, the end product should be a silk thread that is flawlessly smooth after being dried, dyed with vegetable dyes, and smoothed. After that, it is manually woven into a variety of patterns using pedal weaving machines and warp and weft threads.

The traditional Japanese conception of the beauty of the human figure serves as the foundation for the kimono’s constructive cut. Japanese aesthetics defines a beautiful body as having less bulges and irregularities. As a result, in contrast to European apparel, which typically fits the figure, a kimono covers up the figure’s imperfections by highlighting the shoulders and waist and emphasizing flatness and uniformity rather than relief.

The straight lines of the cut in the letter "T" shape are one of the primary characteristics of traditional apparel. No kimono—whether for a woman, a man, or a child—has its length or width altered to fit a particular body type.

When the outfit is put on, it is already tailored to fit the wearer’s figure thanks to a unique technique that involves cutting away extra material from folds and fastening them with an obi belt and unique strings.

A genuine piece of applied art is the kimono. Make sure you cut the fabric correctly and choose the right fabric for the desired outcome. You will need one piece of fabric that is 36–72 cm wide and 9–12 meters long to make one women’s kimono.

The kimono is an intricate garment made up of numerous pieces. Up to fifteen pieces are specifically prevalent in women’s models. The kimonos worn by men and women share certain commonalities. In this instance, every component is sliced into a rectangle. Ovals and roundings of any kind are prohibited.

Two of the four strips that are cut out are used to cover the body’s front and back. Two additional strips are utilized for the sleeves, which have the appearance of a rectangle bag with varying widths and lengths depending on the person for whom the model is meant.

The sleeve is sewn onto the main structure in men’s models. It is sewn into the armpit hole of women’s models. Two more narrow strips are cut out on the left and right sides of the kimono to decorate it from the front. Additionally, the patch and the main collar are made from tiny rectangular strips.

How to put on and wear a kimono

Putting on a kimono is comparable to an artist’s process. How well a traditional costume can be paired with a person’s appearance and, more importantly, their character will determine whether or not a kimono becomes a true decoration.

Three main ideas form the foundation of traditional Japanese costume: etiquette, beauty, and love. A person’s movements are made softer and more relaxed by a kimono’s wide sleeves, long skirt without any cuts, wide belt, and corset-like fastening. This instills a sense of calm and self-assurance. However, in accordance with Japanese aesthetics, certain aspects of this attire, like humility, are highlighted.

The national costume draws attention to the fragility and femininity of women. Manliness and dignity in men.

It’s very challenging to put on a kimono on your own, especially one that is multi-layered and has multiple lower layers tucked under an elaborately decorated upper layer, and tie a belt. It is nearly unfeasible for those from Europe. However, the Japanese manage this. They learn how to put on and wear traditional clothing from an early age.

Both male and female kimonos always have the right side smelling. In other words, the left end must always be higher than the right. The funeral kimono is an exception, since the deceased’s clothing is always wrapped on the left side.

A wide women’s obi belt can be tied into a stunning, luscious bow on the back with a unique art. Moreover, the fabric is expertly wound around the waist to conceal it and give the figure a smooth, unbent surface. The belt for men is narrower than the belt for women. It is fastened practically to the hips. The kimono’s back seam must be precisely in the middle. The white lower collar of the kimono must be worn strictly beneath the main collar.

A person wearing a national costume is not allowed to expose or show any parts of their body or their legs that are covered by clothing, according to Japanese etiquette.

Features of a modern kimono

These days, high-quality kimonos are highly costly. The intricacy of the model, the printing of the pattern, and the fabric embroidery all affect how much they cost. Collectors particularly value traditional embroidered kimonos made of old and opulent textiles like dupont silk, which is still made from silkworm threads in a remote Japanese village.

A unique theme: retro kimonos. These sets are available for far less money than brand-new ones at kimono shops, where Japanese women donate them after years to clear out their inventory of traditional attire suitable for all events.

On special occasions, Japanese women don these extravagant ensembles, which they inherited from their grandmothers and great-grandmothers.

Martial arts training kimonos are made in large quantities. Professional sumo wrestlers are obligated to wear traditional clothing whenever they are in public outside of the ring because they actually wear kimonos on a daily basis.

Brightly colored, synthetic products are produced at a lower cost for the general public. China is the primary manufacturer.

Modern images with kimono and influence on world fashion

Japanese kimonos and general island culture, along with everyday objects, have been actively influencing European fashion and the tastes of both designers and common people since the turn of the 20th century.

The idea of a traditional outfit’s design was expanded when new drawings on kimonos started to appear in the last century. When the Japanese saw that European women were not likely to wear intricate structures and tie wide belts, they started to make models with belts made of the same fabric and extra inserts, creating appropriate kimono that could be worn as a lower skirt.

A kimono is a basic, off-season item that is universal. Both chilly and hot days can be worn it depending on the model and fabric chosen.

It can play a number of roles, projecting a certain image and putting together sets with different functions and styles in a unique atmosphere. For instance, it could be a sophisticated evening gown or beach or house attire. A kimono can be worn as a top, blouse, coat, jacket, light cape, or as a blouse without any weight. Additionally, because it allows for unrestricted movement and comfort in the heat, it is an indispensable summertime item.

Enthusiastic about the new trend, European fashionistas started crafting new looks based on the kimono cut: layered ensembles featuring a stylized dress of different lengths, roomy capes, and blouses. All of this looks great with contemporary attire, including skirts, dresses, T-shirts, short shorts, jeans, and slip-ons, sandals, and sneakers.

Kimonos swiftly became a staple in the wardrobes of stylish people who adopted the bohemian style when it first emerged in the fashion industry.

The kimono, which combines modern elements with historical significance, continues to be a universal emblem of Japanese culture. The range of styles that are still popular today, from the traditional ceremonial garments to the cutting-edge, modern iterations that are favored by global fashionistas, is proof of its timeless appeal.

Every style of kimono has a backstory that reflects the wearer’s identity, the occasion, and Japan’s rich cultural legacy. These clothes allow people to express themselves through fabric and design, whether it’s the formal elegance of the furisode or the laid-back charm of the yukata. They serve as a bridge between the past and present.

The kimono adjusts to changing fashion trends without ever losing its essence. The kimono is still treasured and relevant in today’s world because of this harmony between upholding tradition and welcoming new ideas. It is a living work of art that continues to enthrall and inspire people all over the world, more than just a piece of apparel.

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