Straight Silhouette Dress Pattern: Simplicity and Elegance with Your Own Hands

Making your own straight silhouette dress is a fulfilling endeavor that combines grace and simplicity. This look is classic and adaptable, making it a great complement to any outfit. Making a straight silhouette dress is an easy way to show off your personal style, regardless of your level of sewing expertise.

This dress pattern’s classic shape and clean lines make it attractive on all body shapes. You can make an easy, stylish dress that works for any occasion with just a few basic sewing supplies and techniques.

We’ll walk you through the process of designing and sewing a straight silhouette dress in this article. You’ll find everything you need to complete this easy yet fashionable outfit, from choosing the perfect fabric to adding the finishing touches.

Step	Description
1	Select a simple straight silhouette dress pattern that matches your measurements.
2	Lay the fabric flat and pin the pattern pieces onto it, ensuring all pieces align with the fabric grain.
3	Cut out the fabric along the pattern edges, leaving a small seam allowance.
4	Start sewing the dress by joining the shoulder seams, followed by the side seams.
5	Hem the neckline, armholes, and bottom edge to finish the dress neatly.
6	Try on the dress and make any necessary adjustments for the perfect fit.

Straight silhouette dress patterns provide the ideal balance of elegance and simplicity, enabling you to create a classic piece by hand. This simple design offers a versatile style that fits all body types, making it perfect for novice and seasoned sewers alike. Any occasion can benefit from a stylish, minimalist look that you can create with just a few basic sewing supplies and abilities.

Constructing a Basic Pattern for a Straight Dress with Darts

This method works well for creating a dress pattern for women with average body sizes ranging from size 44 to 48.

Calculating for overweight women requires consideration of numerous features, particularly those with large busts. This is because the shelf to waist length should be longer than the back length when designing the piece. This means that the construction lines need to be adjusted. It is unlikely that a novice dressmaker could accomplish this correctly because these kinds of constructions call for a high level of expertise from professionals.

Which measurements are required for building?

• 1/2 neck circumference (NC);
• 1/2 chest circumference above the base of the mammary glands (POG1);
• 1/2 chest circumference at the protruding points of the mammary glands (POG2);
• 1/2 waist circumference (WC);
• 1/2 hip circumference (HC);
• 1⁄2 chest width (CW);
• distance between the centers of the mammary gland (CG);
• 1⁄2 back width (BW);
• back length (BL);
• chest height (CH);
• front length to the waist (FLW);
• oblique shoulder height (OSH);
• shoulder width (SW);
• skirt length (SL);
• arm circumference (AC);
• wrist circumference (WC);
• wrist circumference (OK);
• sleeve length (SL).

The articles on our website show you how to take accurate measurements.

Allowances are added when creating a pattern; the letter P on the drawing represents this. A small letter in the abbreviation indicates the corresponding size:

• Pg (= allowance to chest circumference) = 4 cm;
• Pt = 3 cm;
• Pb = 2 cm;
• Pshs = 0.5 cm;
• Pspr = 0.5 cm;
• Pds = 0.5 cm;
• Пдпт = 0.5 cm.

How to make a pattern

Building the pattern on graph paper is a good idea. Measuring and drawing all the required dimensions on the grid is convenient. If you choose to use tracing paper or any other type of paper, you must first build a rectangle with one side equal to the dress’s length and the other side equal to the total of the shelf and the ΟШΡ.

Including the lines of the main volumes, we draw a grid to start building the pattern.

Point (∙) A should be marked in the upper left corner. We set aside the measurement of the chest’s half-girth (2 + 4 cm) from there to the right.

Vertically descend from (∙) and subtract 0.5 cm from ds, then insert (∙) W. We depress 21–22 cm from her down and insert (∙) n. This signifies the hips.

By terminating from (∙) w down du, we obtain the bottom line. Place (∙) l there.

Put it on (∙) and measure down the back armhole height plus 0.5 cm to determine the chest line.

We deduct the number of PSHS and shelves from (∙) and move them to the right, placing (∙) A1.

The vertical direct is lowered.

We proceed horizontally from (∙) b, W, h, and l to the intersection with a vertical line from (∙) a1. We place (∙) B1, W1, H1, and L1 at the intersections.

We constructed a dress pattern grid.

Armhole

A segment of VV2 equal to PSHS plus 0.5 cm is deferred.

We draw the perpendicular to the AA1 from (∙) B2, and we place A2 at the intersection.

The segment B1V3 is deferred to be equal to pshg + 4 cm + the difference between sig2 and sb1.

We draw the perpendicular to the AA1 from (∙) B3, and we place A3 at the intersection.

The back half

A segment AA4, which is one-third of the POSH plus 0.5 cm, is set aside.

Mark (∙) A5, and set aside one-third of this value vertically downward from (∙) A.

Building a shoulder dart on the back is not required, particularly if you are using knit fabrics that sew up nicely stretchy.

Using a compass, notch a circle from (∙) A4 with a radius equal to DP. Using a compass from (∙) W, create the second notch with a radius equal to the shoulder height along the bias plus 0.5 cm along the back. Mark (∙) A6 at the intersection of these notches.

Draw a perpendicular from (∙) A6 to the segment A2 B2, and place it at the intersection of (∙) A7.

Add 2 cm and divide the segment B2A7’s length by three. From (∙) B2, move the resultant figure upward to obtain (∙) B5.

After halving the segment B2B3, insert (∙) B4.

Front half

We set aside DPT plus 0.5 cm starting at (∙) B1 and put (∙) A8. We set aside a value equal to the length of the segment AA4 from it to the left horizontally, and we put (∙) A9 in its place.

Moving down from (∙) A8, we set aside the rolling out depth of 9–10 cm and place (∙) A10.

We take a measurement of 1/2 of the chest’s CG plus 0.5 cm along the chest line from (∙) B1 to the left. It will be B8 (∙). From it, we drop a perpendicular to LL1.

Using a compass, we sketch an arc from (∙) A9 until it intersects the constructed perpendicular. This arc’s radius is equal to the height of the chest measured. We place B9 at the intersection (∙).

We draw an arc with a radius equal to the chest height measurement from (∙) B9 on the left side of (∙) A9.

We draw a second arc from (∙) A9 until it intersects with the arc that was just drawn from (∙) B9. The new arc’s radius is two times the difference between POG2 and POG1, plus an additional 2 centimeters. We indicate (∙) A11 at the point where the arcs intersect.

A distance equal to the length of the segment B2A7 (on the back) minus 1 cm is set aside from (∙) B3. We entered (∙) A12.

We draw an arc from (∙) B3 with a radius equal to the length of the segment B3A12. We draw an arc with a radius equal to DP from (∙) A11. We place (∙) A13 at the point where the arcs intersect.

The segment B3A12 is divided into three sections, with (∙) B10 at the end of the first third. Join (∙) A13 and (∙) B10.

Next, follow the drawing’s instructions to draw the armhole template’s outline.

Waist darts

Draw a vertical line down from (∙) B9. Put (∙) W2 where it crosses the waist line WW1. Set aside 1 centimeter from it in each of the two horizontal directions.

Set aside size W2d, or 12–13 cm, along the vertical line that passes through (∙) W2. The length of the second segment, B9d1, is 4-5 cm.

We join the acquired points to create a waist dart on the shelf.

Determine the center of the segment BB2, mark (∙) B6, and draw a vertical line through it for the waist dart on the back. Place (∙) W3 where this line and the waist line intersect. Set aside 2 cm from it in each of the two horizontal directions.

Set aside the size W3d2, or 15-, along the vertical line that passes through (∙) W3.

16 mm. The length of the second segment, B6B7, is 3–4 cm.

We build a dart connecting the acquired points on the back along the waist line.

Side seams

We measure a value equal to 1⁄2 half -rudeness of hips plus 1 cm along the line of hips from (∙) N, and we put that value in (∙) H2 N2. We take a drop from it that is perpendicular to the dress’s bottom line, and we put (∙) L2.

Let’s calculate the difference between the value of ΝΧ1 and the formula for summation = (hip circumference plus 3 cm). Take the total of the front and rear dart solutions and deduct it from the outcome. It adds up to 6 cm, or 2 cm plus 4 cm. Half the resultant difference should be divided. Set aside this amount on both sides of W4 (∙). Note W5 and W6 (∙).

In order to determine (∙) Ν3, deduct the segment’s length Ν from the sum = (half-girth of the hips plus 2 cm). Mark (∙) δ3 and set the resultant value aside from (∙) Χ1.

We draw a perpendicular from (∙) ̝3 to the bottom line, where we put (∙) L3.

Draw the dress’s side lines using both straight and curved lines, just like the drawing suggests.

The pattern for the dress is ready!

Basic pattern of a straight silhouette dress: video

Construction of a pattern of a simple straight silhouette dress without darts

Since there are no darts used in the construction of this straightforward straight-cut dress, selecting the appropriate amount of allowance for a free fit is crucial.

Any stiffness material will work well for this type of dress, which will suit slender, skinny girls. It can be fitted or loosely fitting on the floor. You can allow between 10 and 20 cm for a loose fit around the chest and hips. A dress made of stiff fabric will look luxurious with this cut, and a dress made of thin fabric will lie in lovely folds.

When sewing a straight-cut dress from non-elastic fabric for ladies with attractive shapes, you can’t opt for big allowances and prioritize a fitted cut. Extra volume can be produced by combining non-elastic fabric with a large allowance at the hips. Consider making a floor-length dress out of thin draped material as a backup plan. Large allowances in this situation will result in a loose silhouette that expands downward.

Only elastic knit fabrics can be used to sew dresses without darts for figures with relief shapes, such as large breasts and convex buttocks.

Therefore, choose the allowance’s size before building the pattern.

How to make a pattern

Before

Draw a right angle with the apex at point (∙) H in the lower right corner of the paper. The dress’s lower edge will be represented by the horizontal line, and the shelf’s center will be represented by the vertical line.

Draw a horizontal waist line after measuring the dress length from the waist up. Mark (∙) T.

Mark (∙) G after measuring 16 cm upwards from there. Draw the chest’s horizontal line through it.

Measure a value equal to one-fifth of the hip volume vertically down from the waist line, and then enter (∙) B. Draw the hips in a horizontal line.

Measure the length of the front to the waist starting at the waist and moving along the front’s center line. Add 3–4 cm to this figure for the allowance if the dress model is wearing a belt or an elastic band around the waist. Draw a horizontal line through Mark (∙) O, extending it to the left.

Thus, measure a segment whose length is equivalent to one-sixth of the neck circumference and record the result as (∙) Sh.

Draw a horizontal line from there and descend vertically the length of the segment OSh plus 1 cm. Place (∙) Sh at the intersection of the shelf’s center line and horizontal. Draw the rollout’s pattern curve using (∙) Ψ and (∙) Ψ’.

Place the measurement of the shoulder length horizontally to the left of (∙) Sh, and then (∙) D. Proceed 4 centimeters downward from there to get (∙) Δ’. Create a line segment ШД’ to represent the shoulder.

Back

After drawing the left border of the grid and marking (∙) H3, move back from (∙) H to the left side horizontally by the amount of half the sum of the hip circumference and the allowance for a free fit.

The center line of the back will be the border drawn on the left.

Put (∙) Α3, ΢3, Γ3 after extending the lines of the hips, waist, and chest to it.

Set aside the length measurement from (∙) ΢3 upwards to waist plus 3–4 cm (if necessary). Mark (∙) O3. From there, draw a horizontal line to the right. We set aside a segment along this straight line, (∙) Ψ3, whose length is equal to one-sixth of the neck circumference.

The measurement of the shoulder length is set aside and (∙) Ϊ3 is placed horizontally to the right of it. From there, we descend vertically by 3 cm, so (∙) Δ3′. To form the shoulder line, draw the segment Ψ3Д3′.

We deduct 3 cm vertically from (∙) �\3, draw a horizontal line, and then subtract (∙) �{3′. We delineate the pattern curve of the back neckline by means of (∙) Ш3 and (∙) Ψ3′.

After deducting 1/4 of the total hip circumference, accounting for the allowance for free fit, from (∙) Α3 along the hip line to the right, we obtain (∙) Α1. We create a downward vertical line from it.

We measure 1/4 of the total chest circumference plus allowance starting from (∙) Γ3 and record it as (∙) Γ1.

We measure 1/4 of the total chest circumference and the increase from (∙) Γ to the left, and we record (∙) Γ2.

When constructing (∙) Γ1 and (∙) Γ2, don’t be alarmed if they end up at the same distance or coincide. The precise parameters of the figure and the adjustments made dictate this.

The segment Γ1Α1 is drawn. Mark (∙) ΢1 where it crosses the waist line.

You can narrow the dress at the waist and place 1.5 cm to the left of (∙) T1 to achieve a more fitted silhouette. (∙) T1′ is what we obtain. Cut a new side pattern curve that passes through G1, T1′, and B1.

Sketch the G2B1 segment. Place (∙) T2 where it crosses the waist line.

Narrow the dress at the waist, placing 1.5 cm to the right of (∙) T1, to achieve a more fitted silhouette. (∙) T2′ is what we obtain. Cut a new side pattern curve that passes through G2, T2′, and B1.

Armhole

Draw the back armhole’s outline from (∙) D3′ to (∙) G1. It begins nearly perpendicular to the line shoulder at the top and progressively transforms into a smooth arc.

On the shelf pattern, we follow suit. Starting almost perpendicular to the shoulder line, we draw the armhole outline from (∙) Δ’ to (∙) Γ2, progressively rounding it to (∙) Γ2.

We will now model a 10-cm-long one-piece sleeve based on this armhole.

The front shoulder line will be extended by 10 centimeters. We round the chest line by lowering a perpendicular from the resulting lower point of the shoulder. The front sleeve’s lower line is revealed. Additionally, we create a smooth curve at the angle that separates the sleeve from the side line.

We set aside 4 cm along the chest line to the right in order to obtain a new contour of the back armhole from (∙) G1. We add 10 centimeters to the shoulder line. We use a gentle curve to join the upper and lower armhole points, finishing the transition to the side seam.

Neckline lines

To eliminate the need for fasteners, we will enlarge the rollout’s dimensions.

We extend the rollout by 4 cm on the back, setting aside this space from the highest point along the shoulder line. We indicate (∙) 4. We set aside this distance from (∙) �{3′ and deepen the rollout on the back by 2 cm along the middle line. We entered (∙) 2. We sketch the back rollout template curve between points 2 and 4.

We extend the rollout on the shelf by 4 cm, setting aside this amount at a shoulder-width apart from the highest points. Mark (∙) four feet. Deepen the roll-out by 2 cm along the shelf’s center line, placing this distance from (∙) Ψ’. Enter (∙) 2′. We draw a pattern curve for rolling out the front between points 2′ and 4′.

On the drawing, arrows show which way the shared thread is going. It runs parallel to the front and back center lines.

The straight dress pattern is available!

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Making a dress pattern with a straight silhouette makes it easy to embrace both elegance and simplicity. This classic look adds versatility to any outfit, making it the ideal choice.

There are a few simple steps you can take to create a dress that expresses your unique style. It’s an easy project to complete even for individuals with no sewing experience because of how simple the process is.

A dress with a straight silhouette is a timeless option, whether you’re looking for a sophisticated piece for special occasions or something stylish for everyday wear. You can customize the fit and style of this exquisite garment to suit your own tastes with your own hands.

Video on the topic

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