Skirts – shorts with patterns: stylish and practical

Although shorts and skirts go well together, they give an updated, contemporary look when worn together. Skorts, also known as skirt-shorts, are a popular option for people who wish to combine comfort and style. This adaptable piece is elevated by the addition of patterns, opening up countless creative possibilities in terms of style.

Although they can be dressed up for more formal events, patterned skorts are ideal for casual get-togethers. These pieces provide you the freedom to move freely and look stylish whether you’re heading to the beach, the city, or even a casual get-together.

It’s simple to locate a patterned skort that matches your personal style with the wide variety of designs available. Every taste is perfectly matched, with prints ranging from geometric to floral designs. A skirt is a wardrobe essential because it combines the feminine style of a skirt with the functionality of shorts.

Features	Benefits
Stylish patterns	Elevates your look with trendy designs
Practical design	Combines the comfort of shorts with the elegance of skirts
Versatile wear	Perfect for both casual outings and more formal occasions
Easy movement	Allows freedom of movement without sacrificing style
Available in various fabrics	Choose the material that best suits your needs

How to sew a skirt-shorts: patterns of shorts and a brief description

In addition to the measurements required for the main pattern, we also need the seat height (ђс) of 27 centimeters to construct a skirt-shorts pattern.

We list the primary designs found on the product’s front and rear panels.

Using the same letters as on the main pattern, we indicate the extreme marks of the hips, side and upper cuts, and middle lines.

Back half and middle cut

We retreat down the side cut from mark T2. We set up a section whose length is one centimeter less than the seat’s height. Here, we place a mark ί and draw a horizontal line that continues until it meets the straight lines of the front and back panels.

Next, the intersection points (ί1 and ί2) must be identified.

The formed line is extended leftward by a length equivalent to one-fifth of the hip semicircle plus one centimeter to allow for product free fitting on the model. At this point, we mark Y3.

Y1–Y3 can be found to be equal to 0.2 times (PoB + PB) plus 1. 0.2 x (53 + 2) + 1 = 12 centimeters is the formula.

We draw an upward line from point T that has a length equal to one tenth of the hips’ semi-girth measurement minus two centimeters. The formed point is denoted as T3. The segment Y1-T3 is split up into three sections.

We designate Y4 as the lower division mark. We determine the bisector of the angle Y4-Y1-Y3 and mark Y5 at the beginning of a strip that extends from the mark Y1 and is equal to one tenth of the hips’ semi-girth measurement. The marks Y3, Y5, and Y4 are then joined by a solid, smooth, concave line.

We model the step section

We restore perpendicular to the bottom’s continuation from the mark Y3, designating the formed point as H5. Next, we withdraw from it to the left, leaving a 1.5-centimeter horizontal strip free. We draw a straight line from this point to ί3.

We model the side cut

Using a ruler, we connected the H2 mark with the B2 mark after setting aside two centimeters to the left from the H2 mark along the bottom.

Front half

Modeling the central cut

Place the line ί3-ί2 on the right side at a distance one-fifth the hip half-girth measurement, plus or minus one centimeter to allow for a free fit on the model. Place the marker ί6 here. The segment ί2-΢1 must then be divided into three sections, with ί7 serving as the lower division mark.

Mark ί8 is the place where we set aside a line equal to one tenth of the hips’ half-girth measurement minus one centimeter along the bisector of the angle ί7-ί2-ί6 from the mark ί2. Join ί7, ί8, and ί6 together using a concave, smooth line. At the mark ΢1, shorten the middle line by one centimeter.

Modeling the crotch cut

We restore the perpendicular on the bottom line continuation starting at mark ί6. Put a ~�6 next to the formed mark. Set aside a 1.5-centimeter-long horizontal line to the right of it. Using a ruler, join the resultant point with the mark ί6.

Modeling the side cut

Mark H4 should be positioned two centimeters up from mark H2, which is located at the base of the product. Using a ruler, we join marks H2 and B2 on the drawing.

Important! If you plan to use fabric with a width of 80-100 cm for sewing a short skirt, you will need three lengths of the product + six to eight centimeters. If it is made from fabric whose width is 140 cm, then you will need to use two lengths and an allowance of three to four centimeters.

Cutting nuances

A short skirt can have a flared design or a counter pleat in the center of the front and back halves. Cut the patterns of both product halves along the middle lines and move them apart to the depth of the fold (sixteen to twenty-four centimeters) when cutting skirts with counter pleats.

The suggested cut for a short skirt with counterpleats is shown below:

A is the product’s back, and B is its front.

On each side, trim the bottom level fold’s depth by two to three centimeters. Draw fold lines to the waist level along the marks ί4 and ί7. You must cut out the top of the fold if you are using thick fabric.

The darts at the waist level must be extended to the hip line when cutting out a flared pattern for a short skirt.

A short skirt cutting is shown below.

A represents the product’s back, and b its front.

Further actions

The next step is to cut from the lower edge to the darts’ center. Close the darts at the waist, causing the skirt and pants to separate along the lower edge. Orient the patterns so that the edge of the crotch and the grain line are parallel. Make sure to account for seams. Place "snares" (copy seams) along the pattern’s outlines and the folds’ upper creases. Stitch and bast the darts.

Paste the side edges. Since the fastener is processed on the left side, the seam shouldn’t extend sixteen to twenty centimeters past the top edge. We remove the step sections from both product halves. After pinning the front and back sections in the center, we wash them off.

We try on the short skirt blank, baste the belt, and lay and stitch away the folds.

From the waist to the Y4 and Y7 markings, we stitch in the folds and sew down the edges. That concludes the process of building the product pattern!

The fastener sections—both upper and lower—are processed last. pressing the item.

Sewing a skirt-shorts: video master class

Flared skirt-shorts: and video MK

Skirt shorts: simplified long model

Depending on the material, this skirt can be worn for an evening out or the beach!

Such products are very simple to model and sew; all you need is a little perseverance and focus.

40/42, 44/46, 48/50 in sizes

The completed product will measure 95.5 centimeters along the side seam.

We will make use of the following equipment and supplies while working:

• fabric with a border – depending on the size, 1.6, 1.7 or 1.8 meters, roll width – 1.4 meters (cut along the transverse thread);
• scissors;
• pencil;
• pattern;
• threads;
• sewing machine.

Fabric tip: Soft, airy, and well-draped fabrics work best for making wrap skirt shorts.

Paper pattern for a skirt

In accordance with the above-mentioned plan, we create a pattern for half of the pants. Five by five centimeters is the size of one cell.

Cutting out the details

Two foldable trouser blanks and four ties measuring forty centimeters by six centimeters (folded in half lengthwise = three centimeters) are required for the project to proceed.

Make sure to allow for seam allowances: one centimeter for the middle seam, two centimeters for the top cut and bottom finishing, and one and a half centimeter for each additional seam.

How to make a long skirt-shorts with your own hands: master class

We fold the blanks face to face before executing the middle seam. After sewing the seam allowances together, we carefully iron them in a single direction, starting from the top edge and ending at the step. Remember not to iron seam allowances in the rounded area!

Stitch after tucking in and turning the top and bottom seam allowances inside out.

Bevel one edge of each of the four ties after folding it in half lengthwise. Sew along the beveled and longitudinal cuts. Stitch the remaining short side after turning the ties inside out. Turn them over the stitching stitches and sew them to the longitudinal cuts at the upper ends. Put on the clothing by tying the ties from the front to the back and the back to the front of the garment.

Sew a denim skirt-shorts: video master class

With the ease and comfort of shorts combined with the elegance of a skirt, patterned skirt-shorts are the ideal combination of style and utility. Whether you’re going to the office or out for a casual day, these adaptable clothes make it simple to stay fashionable while being sensible for daily wear. Their diverse range of patterns and styles offer a stylish and playful element to any ensemble, rendering them a preferred choice for individuals seeking a blend of comfort and style.

Skirt shorts below the knee for full-figured women

A woman of any age or build can easily incorporate this knee-length skirt with decorative folds and pockets in the side seams into her wardrobe! Depending on the material, it will look good with both an office blouse and a beach T-shirt, accentuate the hips in a positive way, and cover up everything that we ladies are so scared to show off in the spring.

We will make use of the following equipment and supplies while working:

• any lightweight fabric to your taste, one and a half meters wide (for sizes 34, 36 – one meter forty-five centimeters, for sizes 38, 40 – one meter fifty centimeters; for sizes 40, 42, 44 – one meter seventy centimeters);
• interlining G700 twenty-five centimeters wide ninety centimeters;
• one zipper (for sizes 34, 36, 38. – sixteen centimeters, for sizes 40, 42, 44. – eighteen centimeters);
• one hook-and-loop fastener for the belt;
• threads;
• sewing machine;
• needle;
• pencil;
• paper for patterns;
• scissors;
• measuring tape;
• pins for pinning the pieces together;
• a piece of chalk;
• special wheel for redrawing the pattern.

Material: Select a lightweight material with a good color and density that maintains its shape, like polyester.

Elongated women"s shorts with pleats: a detailed master class

Skirt pattern

Either redraw the pattern according to your specifications or print it out in the format of your choice.

We reshoot the pocket burlap (highlighted in light gray) from part 1 as a distinct blank.

The finishing line is drawn for 34 r on parts 1 along the lightning fastener. We draw this line at the same distance from the middle for other sizes.

The hip circumference determines the size:

• 90 centimeters – 34 r.;
• 94 centimeters – 36 r.;
• 98 centimeters – 38 r.;
• 102 centimeters – 40 r.;
• 104 centimeters – 42 r.;
• 106 centimeters – 44 r.

One can obtain ready-made patterns from Burda 4/2015, model 113 A, page 92.

The best places for all required blanks are indicated in the planning plan.

1 – front portion, two spaces;

Burlap pocket with four empty spaces;

2: two blanks in the back half.

In addition, for the belt (a) and the slope (b) of the right edge of the fastener on the lightning of the special. The paper pattern’s specifics are not given. Directly draw these blanks onto the fabric.

Cut of details

We folded the fabric in half, face inward, for 34–40 minutes. The paper patterns should be pinned to the canvas. Using chalk, indicate the seam allowances around the blanks: 1.5 cm along all other seams and cuts, and 4 cm at the bottom. Along the allowances’ outer lines, cut out each blank. Place the paper patterns in the suggested layout plan below for sizes 42 and 44, then cut out:

Cut each other’s sizes in a different way.

The fabric is layered incorrectly on one side. We fill in the gaps:

• right belt, the length of which depends on the size of the product – 36.5/38.5/40.5/42.5/44.5/46.5 cm;
• left belt, the length of which also depends on the size – 40/42/44/46/48/50 cm (the width of the belts is twelve centimeters);
• slope of the right edge of the fastener 20 cm long for sizes 34, 36, 38 and 22 cm for sizes 40, 42 and 44, width – nine centimeters.

We work on the seam lines and markings

Using a toothed wheel and special copy paper, the boundaries of all pattern blanks and all drawn lines—aside from the grain line—are transferred to the inside of the cut portions. Large basting stitches are used to transfer the fold, the center of the front portion, and the strip of finishing stitch along the zipper to the face of the fabric.

Darts and folds

With their faces facing inward, fold the product’s two back halves together along the dart’s center line and secure with pins. Beginning at the top of the product’s back half, sew the dart. Make a fastening before you begin stitching. Once you’ve reached the top of the dart, securely tie the threads inside the piece; this is where fastening is not required. Iron the dart well’s depth toward the center of the rear portion.

Lay a fold in the direction shown by the arrow on the product’s front halves, and then bast the fold along the front half of the skirt’s upper edge.

Sew on the pocket bags

Overcast the seam allowances, allowing space for the side seams of the halves and the pocket bag sewing cuts. In order to match all of the seam lines and transverse marks, we pin the pocket burlaps to the pocket entrance allowances face to face. As near as feasible to the indicated seam lines, stitch the pocket burlaps to the seam allowances. Iron the pockets over the attachment’s seams.

Stitch the burlap near the seam allowances for the attachment seams on the front half of the product.

Sew the side seams

Align all seam lines and place the product’s two front halves face-to-face on the back halves, pinning the side cuts. The pocket openings between the transverse marks should remain open. Sew the product’s sides together. Secure the ends of the lines with sewing.

Finish the pockets in the seams

Iron the front half of the skirt’s pocket openings and side seam allowances with caution. Pin, align, and sew the pocket burlaps to the product’s front halves. Burlaps should be layered over one another and baste to the top cut.

We make step seams and stitch the edges of the bow

We lay a line, fold the halves lengthwise face to face, and secure the step cuts with pins. Next, thoroughly iron and cover the allowances. Overcasting also applies to all allowances on the front edges, the one-piece facings of the slit, and the back center edges of the shorts skirt’s two halves.

Turn the product so that one half is right side out. Place the two halves face-to-face inside one another. Sew, making fastenings on both sides of the stitching, and pin the edges of the bow from the point of the slit to the crotch seam.

Iron the edges of the slit

Rearrange the halves. At the level of the front center, fold the one-piece facing of the right edge of the fastener slit to the wrong side and bast. Cut off the single-piece facing on the left half, stopping short of the center of the front by two centimeters.

We make a notch at the end of the cut on the allowances of the middle front seam five millimeters before the seam, and baste the facing to the wrong side, not reaching five millimeters to the center of the front, in order to conceal the zipper later. Smooth the corners.

Left side of the fastener

With the upper teeth positioned below the marked line for the waistband attachment, pin the left edge of the slit to the zipper tape as close as possible to the teeth.

Using a single-sided sewing machine foot, sew on the zipper.

Right side of the fastener

Aligning the lines of the front center, pin the zipper’s edges. Without fastening the front half of the garment, pin the other zipper tape from the wrong side to the facing of the right edge of the slit. Sew the facing to the zipper. Secure the facing by sewing the right edge of the zipper from the front side along the markings from the very top to the beginning of the seam line’s rounding.

Bias

Turn the bevel (b) inside out by folding it in half lengthwise. With a 1.5 centimeter seam allowance, sew the lower short edges. Cut off all of the allowances as close to the seam as you can after stitching. Flip the item over and give it a thorough ironing.

Combine the longitudinal cuts by overlaying them. To the left of the slit, pin the cuts to the allowance.

Sew the slit’s left edge allowance to the bevel in the vicinity of the zipper sewing seam.

Securing the bevel, close the fastener’s edges once more and extend the finishing line to the fastener’s end.

Sew on the belt

After cutting the belt’s lining, iron it to the incorrect side of the belt. All belt pieces should be folded in half lengthwise, wrong side facing inward, and the folds (the top of the belt) should be ironed.

Once more, align the belt pieces and secure them to the upper skirt’s edge, facing each other. Next, secure the left end of the belt to the bevel. Sew the belt onto the product’s main component.

Smooth out the margins and cover the belt’s longitudinal indentations.

Work with the back central seam

Place the two halves face-to-face once more, then pin the middle back sections to the belt and skirt. Sew. From the top to the start of the step rounding, iron the seam allowances.

Belt ends and hook-and-eye fastener

Install the hook on the inside of the belt by stepping back 2.5 cm from the right end (i.e., seam allowance + 1 cm). With the right side facing inside, fold the belt at its ends along the ironed fold. Sew small cuts at the ends of the belt along the bevel’s edge on the left and the zipper on the right. Make diagonal cuts to the seam allowances at the corners. Fold the belt piece along the fold with the incorrect side inside out after turning the ends inside out.

Finish the belt and tuck the bottom

Tuck the allowance at the ends of the belt along the inner cut by four centimeters and baste. Then, without tucking, pin the cut over the seam where the belt is attached. Secure the inner half by sewing precisely in the seam where the belt is attached from the front side. Install the hook bridge at the left end of the belt. We iron them inside out, overcast the hem allowances, and hand stitch them.

Patterned skirt-shorts combine fashion and functionality, making them a wardrobe staple. They’re ideal for a variety of occasions because they have the ease of shorts and the stylish appearance of a skirt.

Whether you like bold prints or delicate designs, there is something to fit every taste thanks to the large selection of patterns. You can express your individual style and still enjoy the ease and comfort of skirts and shorts thanks to their versatility.

Patterned skirts and shorts are a wise option for anyone trying to strike a balance between comfort and style because of their fashionable appearance and practical design. They’re a stylish yet useful addition to any wardrobe.

Video on the topic

I sew shorts from linen according to two measurements. Cut, fitting.

Elongated skirt-shorts or the same model with a classic length? Share in the comments 🤍

Don"t buy these skirts ❌❌ #fashion #trends #style #clothes #stylist #shorts

How to make a simple skirt pattern in 5 minutes? Link to MK in the description of the video #shots