A traditional men’s shirt from Russia known as the kosovorotka has come to represent the country’s history. It differs from shirts in the Western style with its distinctive design, which includes a collar that fastens off to one side. Kosovorotkas were traditionally worn by both merchants and peasants, with the materials and decorations changing according to the wearer’s status and the occasion.
The kosovorotka is still a common outfit nowadays; one can see it worn casually as well as at folk performances and cultural events. For those who are interested in folk fashion and traditional sewing methods, making one can be a fulfilling experience.
Everything you need to know to make your own kosovorotka, from choosing the perfect pattern to sewing the last few stitches, is covered in this article. Regardless of your level of sewing experience, you’ll find useful advice to make this authentic representation of Russian culture.
- History of a men"s shirt with a slanted collar
- Measurements for sewing a shirt
- Cutting and elements
- Main part
- Sleeve pattern
- Neckline
- Sleeve cuff – pattern
- Video on the topic
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- kosovorotka
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- Master class on making a kosovorotka
History of a men"s shirt with a slanted collar
The product’s name derives from the term "slanted collar," which refers to a collar that is sewed diagonally rather than straight. Traditionally, shirts were made entirely of hemp fabric, but contemporary shirts can be made of any kind of fabric, though natural materials like cotton or linen work well. Kosovorotka was used as outerwear and undergarments, embellished with belts and tassels, and worn as festive attire.
A novice could easily create a Slavic men’s shirt pattern due to its simplicity. Accurate measurement taking suffices.
Today, this type of product is used both in everyday life and on folk holidays. The main advantage of the shirt is its convenience. It is loose-fitting, not fitted, due to which it does not restrict movement. It is for this reason that back in 1880, the kosovorotka served as a soldier"s uniform. Initially, the collar was cut straight, not biased. But later they decided to move it to the side so that the pectoral cross would not fall out during work and bending (according to historical data). Since then, the name kosovorotka came from, and the style of the shirt has survived to this day and is very popular among people regardless of age and gender. Nowadays, the classic shirt pattern is used to sew many items: sundresses, women"s and men"s shirts, underwear, pajamas or Ukrainian embroidered shirts. On its basis, you can even sew women"s nightgowns from satin or silk.
The traditional tunics known as "kosovorotkas" worn by men in Russia are symbolic and functional pieces of clothing with an asymmetrical collar. The basic steps of sewing a kosovorotka will be covered in this article, from selecting the appropriate fabric and creating a basic pattern to putting the garment together and adding the finishing touches. Regardless of your sewing experience level, this tutorial will give you step-by-step instructions and helpful hints to make a cozy, genuine article of clothing that honors your Russian ancestry.
Measurements for sewing a shirt
- back width;
- sleeve length (to measure correctly, the elbow must be bent and a centimeter must be laid from the neck through the shoulder and elbow);
- hip circumference;
- head circumference (to cut the neckline correctly);
- product length.
All measurements can be rounded up by a few centimeters since a folk shirt should be fitted loosely.
Cutting and elements
The Russian shirt, for which the pattern is shown below, is sewn in three steps: measuring, sewing, and sewing. You must cut out every component of the shirt before sewing. Since they’re all rectangular, there shouldn’t be any issues. It suffices to figure out the products’ length and width: The product is adorned with decorative elements, such as ribbons, braids, embroidery, tassel belts, etc.
Apart from the conventional technique of cutting a kosovorotka, in which each piece is made up of squares and rectangles, there is an additional method for sewing a product of this kind. The primary distinction is that the main portion is cut out in two parts in the second version: the front and the back, as opposed to a single rectangular piece in the first. The product will therefore remain identical, with the exception of an extra seam running from the neck to the sleeve. The image below illustrates the variations.
It is advised that novice sewers sketch out a pattern on paper before cutting the fabric to size. Skilled artisans are able to quickly transfer everything to the canvas and cut out the details in preparation for sewing. The Russian shirt can be sewn as an oversize, or in one size, because it is quite loose in style and lacks darts, unlike other products. The product will fit the figure and not appear baggy if you tie the kosovorotka with a belt while wearing it, emphasizing the waist.
Main part
Kosovorotka standard pattern for a man in size 54; it needs to be drawn from the center. Stanovina, also known as the torso, is the base of the shirt and is cut into a rectangle the size of two product lengths. To begin, measure a man’s or boy’s height, transfer that measurement to a piece of fabric that has been folded in half, and cut out the main portion.
The width and length of the main panel should match those of the final shirt. The width should be 36 cm, according to the classics, as this is the width of the homespun fabrics used to make clothing. Side panels add the remainder of the volume.
Sleeve pattern
A kosovorotka, the pattern of which is made almost the same for men and boys, has several features when cutting out the sleeve. Unlike a regular shirt, the sleeve pattern also looks like a rectangle, like the stanovina. Barrels (side panels) are calculated using the formula: the length of the side seam must be subtracted from the length of the armhole. As a standard, 1 meter is taken as the average width of the product, but if the customer wants a more fitted option, then the shirt is cut out according to individual measurements. When cutting out the sleeves, it is important not to forget about the gusset. These are underarm inserts. They are usually cut out in the shape of a square, approximately 15 × 15 cm or 20 × 20 cm. A gusset is not the most important element of a shirt and you can do without it. But its presence is considered a sign of quality of a good product. A gusset can be triangular, square, in the shape of a diamond and serves to strengthen the side seam connecting the front and back. Beginners who are sewing a shirt for the first time can not focus on the gusset and sew the product without it. The width of the sleeve should be equal to the width of the frame and equal to 36 cm. But the length is determined individually. The sleeve can be short, to the elbow, 2/4 or completely long.
Neckline
For the neckline, you can use any type of braid. One way to add elegance to the product is to sew on an embroidered border. The kosovorotka clasp needs to be processed before sewing the sides. The collar is sewn in at the very end, after all the details have been sewn together.
Sleeve cuff – pattern
- Cut out the cuff (4 pcs)..
- To make it thicker, you can use interlining, which is ironed on the inside of the cuff.
- Next, 2 pieces are placed face to face and basted with stitches, ironed and sewn with a machine, leaving 1 cm to the end so that the piece can be turned inside out.
- The length of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the cuff should match. Due to the free cut of the kosovorotka, the sleeve according to the pattern will be wide, so it is adjusted using one-sided folds.
Step | Description |
1. Prepare the fabric | Choose a natural fabric like linen or cotton, and cut it according to the pattern pieces: front, back, sleeves, and collar. |
2. Sew the shoulder seams | Join the front and back pieces at the shoulders using a straight stitch, and press the seams open. |
3. Attach the sleeves | Sew the sleeves to the armholes, making sure they fit smoothly into the opening. |
4. Stitch the side seams | Sew the side seams of the kosovorotka, starting from the end of the sleeves to the bottom of the garment. |
5. Add the collar | Sew the collar to the neckline, ensuring it aligns properly with the front opening for a neat finish. |
6. Hem the edges | Finish by hemming the sleeves and the bottom of the kosovorotka for a clean look. |
7. Add decorative elements | If desired, add traditional embroidery or trims to personalize the garment. |
A fulfilling project that uses fabric and design to bring history and culture to life is sewing a traditional Russian men’s kosovorotka. You can make an item of clothing that is both practical and unique by paying close attention to the instructions and comprehending the patterns.
The pattern’s simplicity and the measurements’ accuracy hold the secret to success. A beautifully crafted shirt can be achieved by making a manageable project like the kosovorotka, even for individuals with basic sewing skills.
Every stage contributes to the final piece’s authenticity and unique touch, from selecting the appropriate materials to perfecting the finishing techniques. Your kosovorotka can be a classic piece of clothing that honors a rich tradition if you take your time and pay close attention to the details.