Using a collar clamp to create a dress pattern can turn an ordinary ensemble into something genuinely one-of-a-kind. This style offers comfort and sophistication while adding a refined touch to the neckline.
Regardless of your level of sewing experience, this pattern is a fantastic way to improve your abilities. Because of the collar clamp’s adaptable design, you can try out various materials and looks.
We’ll walk you through the process of making this lovely dress pattern in this post, making sure you get a flawless fit and a chic look.
Aspect | Details |
Collar Style | Clamp collar adds a touch of elegance and structure to the dress. |
Fabric Choice | Lightweight fabrics like cotton or linen work best for comfort and drape. |
Pattern Complexity | Beginner-friendly with straightforward cuts, but requires precision in collar attachment. |
Length Options | Can be adapted for various lengths, from mini to maxi. |
Custom Fit | Ensure proper measurements for a snug fit around the neck and shoulders. |
- What does the collar look like a clamp
- A brief excursion into the history of Khomut
- Features of cutting and sewing
- How to sew a cowl collar
- Cowl collar pattern
- Step one
- Step two
- Pattern of a cowl collar with a pull: video master class
- How to cut out and sew a dress with a cowl collar
- Size chart
- How to sew a plus size dress with a cowl
- A jersey dress with a cowl collar
- How to construct a pattern for a dress with a cowl collar
- Let"s start modeling
- Constructing a pattern for a collar
- Sewing
- High collar collar: MK video
- Dress with a collar: how the pattern is made
- Making a dress pattern
- Stage one
- Stage two
- Stage three
- Step four
- Step five
- Step six
- Video on the topic
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- Collar Clamp. Step-by-step construction and cutting
What does the collar look like a clamp
It’s funny to note that a "clamp" in the post-Soviet school of garment construction is referred to as a draped or slightly flowing tacacular collar. Literally speaking, a "clamp" is a product that is worn around the neck. It can be worn as a wide, voluptuous, knit collar or folded twice as a collar.
Collars now have more options for "self-expression" thanks to foreign tailors and couturiers; by "clamp," they now refer to any drapery around the neck. A clamp is referred to as a high collar and fabric folds that fall on the chest in the modern world, and its height also varies greatly. All of this has a direct bearing on Cowl Neck’s past, which we will touch on in passing below.
A brief excursion into the history of Khomut
Latin is the source of the English word "cowl," which means "hood." The collars of today are modeled after the hoods-capes worn by Catholic monks during the Middle Ages. These capes have evolved to include a traditional, elegantly draped hood that hangs from the head and forms coattails on the back, neck, and shelves.
For this reason, a collar in the English-speaking world refers to both the collar itself and the technique used to drape the product’s neck; in Russian, however, these ideas are distinct.
Swings are coattails that are cut out in one piece along the front in post-Soviet countries; a collar, technically speaking, is a short collar.
The bias cut was developed by the Frenchwoman Madeleine Vionnet at the start of the 20th century, and she actively employed it to design fashion gowns with flowing collars. Ten to twenty years later, fashionistas were sympathetic to her enveloping and sliding silhouettes with a draped neckline.
Features of cutting and sewing
We advise following these guidelines when making products featuring a cowl collar.
- When choosing fabric for sewing, give preference to knitwear. It easily forms neat folds, lies softly in the neck area and practically does not wrinkle.
- Before proceeding directly to cutting the collar, check whether the head will easily fit into the neck of the finished product. Make sure that the collar sits comfortably, does not press and, conversely, does not hang down too much.
- We recommend cutting exclusively on the bias for good stretching of the collar (a product with such a collar will be easy to put on over the head and freely fit the neck).
- The cut out blank must be subject to heat treatment, which includes steaming with simultaneous stretching – thus, we form a neat collar and lay a soft lapel.
- Do not iron the collar along the fold line!
- It is most convenient to sew in the collar in parts: first, sew the lower part inside the product, then cover it with the upper edge of the trim.
These easy guidelines will guarantee that your cowl collar products are always elegant and well-groomed!
It’s now time for us to put theory into practice! 128521;
How to sew a cowl collar
We propose that in addition to learning how to sew a sewn-on cowl collar for a silk blouse without a fastener, we examine the steps involved in creating a pattern together.
This collar is a version of a stand-up collar that is folded in half and cut on the bias. A 45-degree angle is cut in the longitudinal direction with respect to the base thread. By using this small tip, you can improve the fabric’s plasticity and achieve good drape. The back of the product’s center should precisely align with the collar’s center seam.
On a product that has already been cut and sewn, we sew on a collar.
Such a basic collar’s pattern can be made directly on the fabric, as well as on tracing paper.
Cowl collar pattern
Step one
We enlarge and deepen a blouse or dress’s neck. Because there is no fastening on this product, make sure the neck circumference is large enough to fit over the head.
Generally, the collar is made to fit a downward-extending neck shape. We use a tape measure and a sewn product or pattern to measure the length of the neck cut.
We measure the desired length and height of the collar beforehand using a mannequin to see how the folds lay on the chosen fabric.
The chosen fabric should be folded at a 45-degree angle in half. The middle of the part will line up with the middle of the shelf along the fold line.
We measure the length on a perpendicular line that we lay from the fold; this measurement equals half of the desired neck length. The width of the collar measures thirty centimeters, or four times the width of the neck. The formed rectangular part should be carefully cut out.
Every component of the product, including the collar, is arranged and ironed on an ironing board. Now, take the collar’s cut rectangle and pull it along the center with a hot iron to create a natural stretch that will help form a fold.
Step two
Ensure that the collar blank is folded in an arc shape by folding it in half lengthwise. After cutting the cuts that were distorted during the pulling, fold the blank in half lengthwise once more. Additionally, trim the short cut that will be sewn into the back neckline by one to one and a half centimeters. The collar fits better when shortened from the back.
Sew the part’s short sides together, face-to-face. Iron both of them thoroughly. The ring that results is folded in half lengthwise.
Attach the clamp to the neckline by sewing the collar seam to the back center and the center of the parts along the shelf. Put the merchandise to the test.
Cover the seam with the stitching as you sew in the collar, folding it in half at a time or alternating between sewing the outer and inner edges first.
In order to preserve the fabric’s natural drape, iron the collar seam without coming into contact with the fold.
Pattern of a cowl collar with a pull: video master class
How to cut out and sew a dress with a cowl collar
Below is a full-size pattern for a dress with a cowl collar:
Print the photos in A4 format after saving them to your computer. After using a ruler to measure the test square on the penultimate piece to ensure the print is accurate, glue the pattern’s individual pieces together.
Seam allowances are not taken into account when designing the pattern, so remember to add one centimeter to every cut. You can also leave three to four centimeters for hemming along the dress’s hem. You cannot leave allowances if the machine settings allow you to stitch the product beautifully over the edge or if you have the option to overcast the edges with a narrow stitch overlock.
Crucial! The pattern is made up of a single template that doubles as a back piece and a shelf. We have to cut out four of these blanks.
Size chart
- Size 50 – 100-80-106 cm;
- Size 52 – 104-84-110 cm;
- Size 54 – 108-88-114 cm;
- Size 56 – 112-92-118 cm.
How to sew a plus size dress with a cowl
Thus, we started by overcasting the collar and side cuts of the dress. Transfer control marks to the pattern from the side seam. Stitch the dress’s side seams and the one-piece collar’s side seams in the same manner. Make sure to properly iron each allowance with a hot iron. Apply the same instructions as before to the inner layer.
The dress blanks should be folded face to face and joined at the armhole. Turn the product inside out, notch the seam allowances, and iron the armholes thoroughly.
Sew the upper and lower cowl collar cuts one centimeter and one and a half centimeter in error to the wrong side of the upper and lower layers, respectively. Use concealed stitches to stitch the bottom to the top.
First, turn the dress’s hem up one centimeter, and then another. Stitch and use pins to secure it.
The garment’s sides at the top and bottom only need hand stitching to be finished. All set is a flowy dress with a cowl collar!
A jersey dress with a cowl collar
Wearing a jersey dress is comfortable and versatile. When you have to quickly get dressed and go about your business, it is always a lifesaver. A dress with a cowl collar is perfect for chilly weather and looks great with ballet flats or sandals. You can wear it to work, out shopping, on a date, or on a stroll with the kids.
How to construct a pattern for a dress with a cowl collar
We will require a basic women’s dress pattern in order to create a pattern for the garment. It is simple to locate on our website, the Internet, or build it yourself based on custom measurements.
Therefore, you must close the darts on the pattern first. We just do not need darts because we will be sewing a dress out of elastic, well-stretched, and shape-holding knitwear.
Where to close them is depicted in the diagram:
After completing the darts, move the paper pattern to a piece of tracing paper and trace it.
The base pattern’s contours are displayed in green in the diagram below, while our dress’s patterns are displayed in yellow.
Consequently, the following patterns ought to appear:
Product modeling, cutting, and sewing
Let"s start modeling
The neck recess center point must first be lowered ten centimeters to the bottom.
The next step is to take a ten-centimeter step back along the pattern’s shoulder sections in both the front and back, then smoothly connect this mark with the neckline mark. This location is shown in the above-mentioned diagram as a red line with a black outline.
Due to the flared sleeve effect of the dress, we must add two centimeters to each side at the sleeve’s bottom level.
Constructing a pattern for a collar
Using a pencil and a ruler, draw a straight horizontal line seventy centimeters long, as indicated in the diagram’s upper section. Next, cut it in half and mark the location where we will retreat seventeen centimeters up and down. We placed ourselves thirteen centimeters up and down along the strip’s edges. Use fluid motions to join the formed points.
After constructing the pattern, we draw a dotted line around its whole perimeter, one centimeter away, to indicate the seam allowances. Additionally, we increase the length of the sleeves and the dress’s hem by three to four centimeters.
Sewing
Keeping in mind where the shared thread is, cut out every blank for the dress. On the bias, we cut out the collar!
Next, using a four-thread stitching seam, we must overlock the dress along the side and shoulder cuts.
We use the exact same technique when sewing sleeves. They are stitched into the dress’s foundation.
Stitch the collar from the back, flip it inside out, and stitch it to the product’s neck.
Using an overlocker, we hem the dress after going over the hem and the sleeves.
That concludes the tailoring process!
A dress with a collar clamp gives an elegant finishing touch to any ensemble, providing a special fusion of fashion and utility. It will be simpler to achieve a tailored fit and a polished appearance with this type of dress if you follow the instructions in this article. With easy-to-follow directions and helpful advice, you can make a dress that fits flawlessly and stands out.
High collar collar: MK video
Dress with a collar: how the pattern is made
We already knew how to sew a collar to a dress in the past, but how can we make it all in one piece? Naturally, this option is a little more difficult (especially for those who are new to sewing!), but we’ll do our best to explain everything in detail and provide illustrations on the diagram. A dress like that will cover up any small figure flaws and elegantly accentuate the décolleté area.
For sewing the main portion of the dress, we advise selecting a fabric that is light, flows nicely, and isn’t transparent (if not, we will need to sew on a lining). We use the exact same material for the draperies; you can choose a different color if you’d like. You absolutely need a soft fabric that creates lovely folds for drapery.
Making a dress pattern
Stage one
This dress’s pattern is an adaptation of the standard women’s dress pattern, tailored to the model’s measurements. Although the product’s length is chosen individually, we believe that 65 centimeters from the waist is the ideal measurement.
The new mark of the shoulder cut line is then moved three centimeters to the left of the extreme mark of the shoulder cut. We pull back from it by four centimeters; the top of the neck is now visible. The next step is to measure the distance between the top of the main pattern’s neck and the newly created one. We then transfer this measurement to the back’s shoulder cut line.
Stage two
To form the convexity of the shoulder blades, we use a dart. We shorten the product by five millimeters along the shoulder cut line to enhance the fit around the armholes. We sketch a gentle curve representing the notches. We build them according to the schematic below. We mark a five to ten millimeter fold on the dress’s front blank to improve the product’s fit around the armholes.
Stage three
At the midpoint of the back, we shorten its length by five millimeters and deepen it by three centimeters along the middle line. We construct the back neckline line at a right angle to the newly marked back center, marking the back center line from the armhole height level we just measured.
The front portion of the dress’s pattern was cut from the chest’s center to both the center and side cut lines.
While moving the dress’s front blanks one and a half centimeters along the center line, we join the dart’s side sides on the chest. We then temporarily move the remaining dart solution in the direction of the side cut line.
Step four
It’s now time to draw the waist cut line on the front portion of the dress. We do this by curving the main pattern line three centimeters above the waist level and at a straight angle to the front center to the waist cut line on the side.
In order to enlarge the front portion of the dress, we extend the line of the center of the dart in the waist area from the main drawing to the line of the bottom. Subsequently, the bottom of this dart is moved towards the bottom line.
Step five
The stunning deep drape of the neckline is the most alluring feature of this dress. We must make it long enough to match the length of the front portion of the dress’s neckline. We draw so that the center line of the front portion forms a right angle. The insert is made by folding it in half along the center line.
In accordance with the drawing, we draw the waist cut line. The dart solution must then be moved to the mark on the lower back of the garment after drawing darts above the waist cut level.
Step six
We now expand the blanks by five to ten centimeters in the bottom area, along the side cuts of the dress, and in the front and back. Here, you can play around a little and go up a size or three, but don’t go overboard because a dress like this could have ugly side folds or sag along the front and back.
All the details need to be cut out using sharp scissors. We seal the remaining bust dart solution on the product’s front panel. Align each cut line with precision. Cut in the indicated lines. Join the side edges of the lower dart sections on the front and back pieces at the waist, then unfold the sections at the bottom mark by ten centimeters each. To accommodate the built-in fold, extend the front’s center line by 2.5 centimeters. Show which way the warp thread is going. That concludes the pattern preparation.
Making a dress with a collar clamp is a fulfilling project that lets you give your clothes a distinctive edge. The collar clamp gives the dress a sophisticated and elegant look by adding both style and functionality.
Take your time with each step of the pattern to make sure the dress fits perfectly. For a polished finish, pay close attention to the seams and measurements because the details are what matter most.
In addition to having a lovely dress, you’ll gain better sewing abilities by mastering this pattern, which will make your subsequent projects even more successful and pleasurable.