Methods for sewing knitted fabric using a regular sewing machine

It can be a little scary to sew with knit fabric, particularly if you’re not used to sewing with woven materials. Knitted fabrics have a natural stretch, which can make handling them more difficult than with woven materials. However, you can definitely use your everyday sewing machine to sew gorgeous, professional-looking clothing if you know the proper techniques.

Knowing how the fabric behaves and modifying your sewing techniques are essential for success when sewing knits. Every step of the process, from picking the right needle to picking the right stitch, can have a big impact on the outcome. All you need are a few easy tricks and some basic knowledge, not a fancy machine.

The best techniques for sewing knitted materials with a regular sewing machine are explained in this article. These pointers will assist you in consistently achieving smooth seams and a polished finish, whether you’re sewing a cozy sweater or a stretchy pair of leggings.

Needles for sewing knitted fabrics

Knitted fabric can be harmed by standard needles meant for most other types of fabrics. Typically, the needlewoman will notice breaks or tightening of the stitching while sewing.

  • "Jersey" – suitable for wool and cotton knitwear.
  • "Stretch" – the tool is designed for synthetic fabric.

The more rounded tip of the needles mentioned above enables you to create a flawless stitch. Both regular and knitwear-specific needles come in different sizes. Depending on the fabric’s density, the tool’s length and thickness must be chosen. You should follow the guidelines provided in the table when selecting a needle.

Density of fabric Needle number
Thin knitwear (smooth jersey, waffle). 70/9
Medium-density fabric (footer, ribana, velor). 80/11
Dense and voluminous fabric (interlock, pique and capitonné, etc.). 80/11, 90/14

It is advised to do a test stitch on a piece of fabric and adjust the thread tension before stitching blanks from knitwear.

How many needles are installed on knitting machines

The quantity of threads depends on how many needles are used. Two to five threads can be used in each stitch of a knitted seam, depending on the technique used. Although some cover stitching machine models have 8 or 12 threads per stitch, they are typically only meant for one or two operations and are used only for production. As an illustration, attach a broad elastic band to the sports pants’ waistband.

Therefore, a double stitch made up of two parallel zigzags or parallel straight lines works well for medium-density knitwear. The ideal spacing between lines, according to experts, is 6 mm.

The length and width of two parallel zigzags in a knitted seam should differ from one another. For instance, the first stitch might have a stitch length of 2.5 mm, making it narrow, and the second stitch might have a stitch length of 3 mm, making it wider.

When working with knitted fabric of increased elasticity, it is recommended to use a three-thread overlock stitch. The stitch length should be 2.5 mm, and the width from 5 to 7 mm, which will not spoil the fabric. To process highly elastic knitted fabrics, it is necessary to use a three-thread overlock stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 mm and a width of 5 to 7 mm. The peculiarity of such a seam is good elasticity. For very dense knitwear, experts advise using one or two lines made with a zigzag. The fact is that such a seam does not deform the fabric. It should be laid at a distance of 1.5 – 2 cm from the edge.

How to sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine: the correct thread tension

Achieving a balance between the upper and lower thread tension is crucial for achieving the perfect stitch. Usually numbered, the regulators that adjust the upper thread’s tension are found on the front panel or on the machine head’s shoulder.

You must remove the shuttle and hang it while holding the end of the thread that emerges from the bobbin in order to measure the tension. If the shuttle descends no more than 4 cm and the bobbin rotates at the same time, the tension is deemed to be correct. When the shuttle does not descend at all while in the same position, strong thread tension is assumed. You should turn the screw on the bobbin case’s surface to change the lower thread’s tension.

Only after the upper thread has been adjusted should the lower thread be adjusted. The upper knot is typically the source of an uneven stitch.

It is also important to remember that the tension of the lower thread can be drastically altered by even a small twist in either direction. For instance, you must turn the screw to the left to loosen the thread and to the right to increase the tension.

What is the difference between a knitted overlock

The way the stitch is formed on sewing machines made for knitted fabrics is different from that of other types. The chain stitch, which is used to sew knit garments, is created with the aid of a looper. In the following image, a flat-stitch machine called Janome is on the right, and a knitted overlock called Merrylock 009 is on the left.

Thus, one thread is fed into the bobbin and the other into the sewing machine. The threads’ intertwining with one another results in the formation of the stitch. A regular machine can be used with a special foot and a zigzag stitch to overcast the edge of a knitted product. Since the stitch pulls both threads tightly together, this type of seam might not hold up well to stretching. This is nearly impossible with an overlock because the overcast stitch is so strong, elastic, and flexible.

The inclusion of a differential conveyor is another one of the knitted overlock’s primary distinctions. What’s that? Example: You might find that a highly stretchable knit fabric stretches and creates "waves" when operating a basic sewing machine.

With differential fabric feed, you have complete control over how much the fabric is stretched or gathered. The fabric beneath the foot of modern sewing machines can be stretched or gathered using special switches.

Threads for the formation of a high-quality knitted stitch

The threads need to be given extra care when sewing knitted fabric, regardless of the special equipment used. That is to say, whether you are using an overlock or a standard sewing machine, you should be aware that the thickness, strength, elasticity, and homogeneity of the threads or yarn directly affect the stitch quality.

For knitwear, it’s best to use smooth and elastic threads. For these kinds of applications, long-fiber polyester, textured nylon threads, and fibrous nylon threads work well. Sewing knitted fabric also works well with stretch threads. Special sewing departments now carry an enormous assortment of knitwear-appropriate materials that work with regular sewing machines.

How to sew knitwear with a double needle

  • By the size of the eyes.
  • By the thickness of the needle rods and the distance between them.
  • By the color of the base.
  • By the shape of the tips of the needles.

  • 1.6 mm;
  • 2 mm;
  • 2.5 mm;
  • 3 mm;
  • 4 mm;
  • 6 mm;
  • 8 mm.

  • Number 75 is suitable for elastic paintings.
  • Metalized threads are suitable for working with a double needle for number 80.
  • 80 and 90 are universal options for sewing.
  • 100 is suitable for dense fabrics.

Regarding how to use a double needle to sew knit garments on a basic typewriter back then. Therefore, there are a few fairly basic guidelines that you must follow in order to use a double needle correctly:

  • Correctly pick up needles, threads and canvas. It is important that all three components correspond to each other.
  • Adjust the tension of threads based on the properties of the canvas.
  • Check the correct refueling of threads.

Checking and adjusting the thread tension is the first step to take if stitches are missing while sewing with a double needle.

How to get a knitted seam on a sewing machine

These days, a lot of tricks and advice on how to sew anything from knitwear on even the most basic machine can be found online. Let’s focus on the most fundamental ones:

  • It is worth choosing a needle with a rounded tip so that during the process it does not pierce the fabric, but pushes it apart. This is especially important for thin knitted fabrics. As for very dense fabrics, the risk of tearing the fabric is reduced to a minimum.
  • You can put a sheet of paper on the fabric or under it. The line is laid on the paper, after which it is torn off.
  • To obtain a high-quality knitted seam on a sewing machine, you should use special polyester threads. Today they are quite common and are available for sale in many specialized stores.
  • The conveyor helps to move the top layer of the fabric. As a rule, such a tool is built into many modern sewing machines.
  • Training and checking the seam on a small piece of fabric never hurts to check the tension of the threads and the quality of the stitch.

Constructing a pattern for knitwear

  • To do this, first of all, you need to prepare the fabric. It is worth noting that cotton fabric shrinks a lot, so before cutting it should be washed and dried, repeat the procedure at least twice. If the edges of the fabric curl strongly, the fabric can be ironed before cutting.
  • For very elastic fabric, the pattern should be pinned with pins, only then traced with chalk and cut out. But if the fabric is delicate, then piercing with sharp objects will not work, since the fabric can be damaged. In this case, masking tape will serve as an alternative. The pattern is placed on the fabric, fixed with tape and cut out.
  • It is not recommended to cut elastic fabric in two layers, since the parts can shift.

How to stitch knitwear so that it does not stretch

When working with knitwear, the majority of experts recommend using an overlock or contemporary sewing machines with a differential conveyor. For instance, certain models of the following brands—Brother, Comfort, Family, Janome, and Sew Easy—have this feature.

  • Before sewing, the edges of the fabric can be greased with paste. It is not difficult to make: it is made from starch or flour. The sticky mixture is applied with a brush to the edges of the fabric, wait until it dries completely. When the edges harden, it is stitched, then washed to remove the remaining paste.
  • A sheet of paper can be placed on or under the fabric. The line is laid on the paper, after which it is torn off.
  • If the knitted product has stretched after stitching, you can try ironing it. In some cases, after this, the product takes the desired shape.

Features of sewing knitwear on a Janome machine

These brand’s contemporary machines are equipped with the components needed to sew knitted materials. For instance, the following are the primary guidelines when handling knitted fabric:

  • Stitch selection — D (zigzag).
  • Presser foot — for zigzag.
  • Stitch length — 0.5-1.5 mm.
  • Thread tension — 1-4 mm.
  • Stitch width — 5 mm.

Stitch F works well with extremely elastic materials meant for swimsuits or sportswear. This is accomplished by sewing the fabric with a 1.6 mm seam and then cutting off the extra material.

Method Description
Use a Stretch Stitch This stitch allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. Many sewing machines have a built-in stretch stitch option.
Use a Ballpoint Needle A ballpoint needle glides between the fibers of the knit fabric rather than piercing them, reducing the risk of snags and holes.
Adjust the Tension Lower the thread tension slightly to prevent the fabric from puckering or stretching out of shape while sewing.
Use a Walking Foot A walking foot helps feed the knit fabric evenly through the machine, preventing it from stretching or distorting.

While sewing knitted fabric with a standard sewing machine may seem difficult, it is completely possible if you know the proper techniques. Snags and skipped stitches can be avoided by using the proper needle, such as a stretch or ballpoint needle. Furthermore, the fabric can retain its stretch without breaking the thread by using the proper stitch, like a stretch or zigzag stitch.

Using a walking foot can help you achieve even better results by ensuring that the fabric is fed through the machine uniformly. A significant impact on the quality of your seams can also be made by varying the tension and stitch length. Gaining proficiency in these techniques can be achieved with a little perseverance and practice.

Whether you’re working on a straightforward project or something more complicated, knowing these techniques will help you produce results that look professional. These tricks make it easier to sew knitted materials on a standard sewing machine, giving you more options for your artistic endeavors.

It can be a little challenging to sew knit fabric with a standard sewing machine, but it is completely possible if you know the right tricks. Without the need for a specialized machine, you can achieve professional-looking results by selecting the right stitch settings, using the right needles, and handling the fabric carefully. With the help of this guide, you will confidently sew clothing from your favorite knits by learning easy techniques to ensure your seams are stretchy, long-lasting, and well-finished.

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Sergey Litvinov

I have been working in the field of textile art for over 20 years. I am passionate about textile design and create unique things inspired by traditions and modern trends. In my articles, I talk about how you can use fabrics to create unique and stylish things with your own hands.

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