How to sew a pleated skirt with your own hands

Regardless of your level of experience, making a pleated skirt on your own can be a fulfilling and enjoyable project. Pleated skirts are a great addition to any wardrobe because they are fashionable and versatile. Making your own also lets you select the fabric and style that best fit your preferences.

We’ll walk you through the process of making your own pleated skirt in this guide. You’ll find all the advice you need to make a stunning, personalized piece, from choosing the ideal fabric to perfecting the pleating technique. If you’re not a seamstress, don’t worry—this method is simpler than it looks!

Step	Description
1	Measure your waist and desired skirt length.
2	Cut the fabric according to your measurements, adding extra for seams.
3	Mark and fold pleats evenly across the fabric.
4	Press the pleats with an iron to keep them in place.
5	Sew the pleats at the top to secure them.
6	Attach a waistband to the top of the skirt.
7	Sew the side seam and hem the bottom edge.
8	Attach a zipper or hook and eye closure.

What is pleated

One kind of fabric or even leather processing is pleating, or simply pleating (from the French plissé from the word le pli – fold). Pleats can be bent, straight, flared, or combined. They are made by forming numerous symmetrical folds that are laid in one direction. The pleating itself can be done in sections at specific intervals or throughout the entire width of the product (skirt, dress). The width of the folds varies.

Pleated and goffered

There are two types of folds that are commonly distinguished in Russian-speaking countries: pleated and goffered (derived from the French word gaufré). Pleated: These are flat folds that are pressed on the edge and range in width from 0.5 to 5 cm, i.e. standing. Pleats are simply accordions made of fabric that have been ironed. In turn, there are variations in the grouping of folds and the corrugation, which can be straight or flared.

The distinction between corrugated and pleated fabric is virtually lost in contemporary fashion; not all designers even know what corrugated fabric is.

Types of pleated

Pleating comes in an enormous variety of forms! The accordion, Fortuny, and cartridge are the most widely used.

Pleating that gathers more fabric in the seam area is called cartridge pleating. The 16th and 18th century’s relatively affluent fashionistas were its main fan base.

Accordion pleat: this option is known as gofre in Russian.

Mariano Fortuny, a Spanish fashion designer, created the tiny folds known as "fortuny pleating" on silk fabric at the start of the previous century.

What materials are used for pleating

Pleats can be made from a wide range of materials, including satin, guipure, jacquard, airy silk and chiffon, thick cotton and linen, and crepe de chine. Warm winter dresses look great with wool and semi-wool pleats. A velvet skirt will accentuate an elegant autumnal look, and the hottest trend right now is a black leather pleated skirt that will turn heads at any party! Knitting needles can also be used to create a pleated skirt in addition to the previously mentioned methods (note that the method we will discuss below is very different from the one for knitted pleating).

Pleating works best with synthetic fabrics because they retain their shape even after hand washing and hold wrinkles well. Natural pleated fabrics should only be subjected to dry chemical treatment (dry cleaning) in order to maintain their shape. Washing them is not advised.

It is worthwhile to select large folds for dense fabrics and small folds for light and airy fabrics in order to preserve the product in its original form for as long as possible.

How pleated fabric is created

Heat treatment is used to create fabric on an industrial scale. There are two ways to pleat:

• dry when the fabric is processed at a temperature of 170-200°;
• with steam, when the fabric is wound in a roll on a corrugated tube through which steam at a temperature of 130° is passed.

The fabric is additionally treated with a unique chemical composition to produce a pleating that is wash-resistant.

DIY pleated fabric

After sorting out the theory, we recommend turning our attention to practice. Plissa fabric is typically available in just two or three colors: black, white, red, and brown. However, what steps should you take to create a distinctive item using pleated fabric? The master class we have today will help you!

We require the following equipment and supplies for our work:

• Drawing Watman (several more sheets);
• thin fabric (we will use chiffon, but silk, satin, cotton are also suitable);
• iron construction meter;
• large paper clamps;
• Super Clair "Moment Crystal";
• needle;
• knife;
• pencil;
• Sharped scissors;
• A piece of cotton or flax for lightning;
• iron (preferably with a steam generator);
• sewing threads to match;
• sewing machine and overlock;
• cargo for the press (books or the same sewing machine).

A little about the tools for work

Let’s make clear what equipment we need for work so as to prevent confusion.

• Whatman paper – use sheets of any format: A1, A0 or Whatman paper in a roll of 1.2 x 10 m. We advise you to choose the last option, since with the help of a rolled Whatman paper you can make almost any convenient length and width of the fabric.
• We will need a metal tape measure to measure the folds. Rulers made of wood or plastic are not suitable for these purposes.
• Super glue is needed to glue sheets of paper.
• Choose a blunt knife or use its unsharpened side.
• A steam generator is not a mandatory device in the work, but with its help we will steam the pleats much faster than ironing them with a regular iron, since the steam is supplied under high pressure. If you are going to use a regular household iron, try to weigh it down with something or press on it harder.
• We advise using fabric with an admixture of synthetics (at least 50%) so that it can be washed without the risk of losing its shape. If we choose natural fabric, it cannot be washed (dry cleaning only!). For this master class, you can use chiffon, tulle, silk (synthetic), stretch satin, thin knitwear, any thin suit and dress fabric that drapes well, gabardine or eco-leather.

To keep the folds in their original shape, impregnation will not be used in this manufacturing process.

How to make folds for a pleated skirt: a step-by-step master class with photos

Stage one

Cut out the Whatman paper first. Two identical sheets will be needed to create the form. The short side of the sheet will have the future skirt’s length plus three centimeters of stock (you can add more stock if you’re working with loose fabrics). The long side of the Whatman paper will have the width of the skirt (which is equal to the hip circumference plus five centimeters) times three for skirts, and three times the length of the cut (like the yoke line) for decoration.

Draw lines on one of the Whatman sheets along the two longer sides, keeping a 1.5-centimeter distance from the edges.

We mark the locations of the future folds by drawing a line from the edge every 1 and 2 centimeters and marking it with dots. Every 2 centimeters, we then create serifs, as seen in the picture. Mark things as precisely as possible with a sharp pencil.

To prevent displacement, combine the two watmans and crush them with a load. We insert a needle into every point on both sides.

Pure all the lines of the folds on the broken points with a stupid knife.

The drawn shape needs to be bent on the paved lines, and the sheets need to be glued. The form’s top and bottom seams ought to meet exactly at that point.

Ensuring that every fold lines up precisely, we insert the upper portion of the form into the lower part. similar to this

Stage second

The form must then be steeped with previously laid folds in order to increase its elasticity and prevent breaks and deformation during operation. If a steam generator is not available, we moisten the cotton cushion with water, squeeze it out, place it on the mold in three or four layers, and then iron the folds at the highest setting to prevent steaming.

To hasten drying, place the completed form on top of or close to the radiator. Next, align all of the folds by ironing them with an iron or steam generator.

Stage three

We now have to get the fabric ready. It is necessary to rinse and allow the fabric to dry beforehand if it contains viscose, cotton, wool, or silk to prevent shrinking afterwards. After ironing the fabric, we cut out panels to the correct size: length = D of the skirt + hem + 1 cm for the seam; total panel width = (OB + 5 cm) x 3.

We will need 1.5 m for a skirt with an elastic band that fits a hip volume of 94 cm, a length of 65 cm, and a fabric width of 1.4–1.5 m.

To prevent distortions, we cut the chiffon along the pulled-out thread and the fabric’s edges.

Step four

Hemming the skirt’s bottom is the next task. When working with chiffon, we advise using an overlock with a rolled seam; if using another fabric, you can overcast it using a sewing machine or by hand. Use of the "Moscow seam" is an option.

Next, we place the chiffon into the prepared form, spreading it out on the bottom, covering it with the top, and beginning to lay the folds while continuously observing the fabric’s position to prevent skewing.

First, lay down six strips and secure the template with paper clips along with the fabric on both sides, as shown in the photo below. Put a weight (books, iron) so that the folds do not shift, steam thoroughly (if using an iron, then iron the folds through 3-4 layers of damp cotton or linen fabric at maximum power, leaving the folds to sit well), immediately put a load on them (for example, a long board, and then books or a sewing machine on it) for 10-15 minutes until the fabric cools. Then lay down a larger number of folds in the same way (you can try 12 at a time) and continue steaming/ironing the fabric until the cut is finished.

After that, assemble the form once more without using steam and place it under pressure. If you used an iron, let it dry for about 8 hours; if you used a steam generator, let it dry for about 4-5 hours. Once this period has passed, the pleated fabric is ready; remove the weight and forms!

We advise hand washing this fabric at a maximum temperature of +30°; do not wring out; and dry strictly upright. Skirts with knit pleats or chiffon are carefully ironed without the use of steam.

How to sew a pleated skirt in an hour: video tutorial

Making a pleated skirt by hand is a creative and fulfilling project that adds a personalized touch to your wardrobe. Simple materials and a few basic sewing techniques will allow you to make a fashionable skirt that fits well and expresses your own style. From selecting the perfect fabric to learning pleating techniques, this tutorial will take you step-by-step through the entire process so you can sew a pleated skirt at home with confidence.

How to sew a long pleated skirt

The sizes are listed below, each divided by a dash or an asterisk (*). When a single number is given, it applies to all recommended sizes.

We will require the following equipment and supplies for our work:

• chiffon with a pattern 2 m x 1.45 m for any size;
• one-color crepe satin 2.2 m x 1.4 m;
• interlining G 785;
• one button;
• two small buttons.

We will sew a skirt in the following sizes, per this description: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, and 44.

The product measures 102 cm in length.

Patterns: how to cut a pleated skirt

Design of the skirt’s front panel. Every value is expressed in centimeters.

Plan of arrangement. Chiffon patterned fabric, 145 cm in width.

Place the fabric face up in a single layer. Sew the front and back pleated skirt blanks together symmetrically!

Crepe satin in a single color, 140 cm in width.

Create a paper pattern based on the full-size skirt’s front panel drawing. To accomplish this, draw a rectangle with the appropriate length and width, mark the center, and then use the provided dimensions to draw seam lines with dotted auxiliary lines. The paper blanks for the product a’s right side front panel, the skirt b’s middle front panel, and the skirt c’s left side front panel are obtained by cutting the paper blank along the seam lines. Along with designating the upper cuts, we use the indicated letters to indicate the blanks.

Do-it-yourself pleated floor-length skirt

Stage one

Allow 1.5 cm for hemming the bottom and for seams and cuts. We then start cutting.

Crucial! Cut away the back panel’s details. symmetrically to the skirt’s front panel’s details.

From patterned chiffon:

• right side part of the front / back panel of the skirt x 2;
• left side part of the front/back panel of the skirt x 2.

From crepe satin in a single color:

• middle blank of the front/back panel of the skirt x 2;
• belt 68*72*76*80*84*88 cm long (3 cm of which is an allowance for the fastener) and 6 cm wide, finished – 3 cm.

Lining: refer to the layout plan’s details (highlighted in gray).

The preparatory work is finished. We’ll then go over how to make a pleated skirt by hand!

Pleats: We notch the allowances in the corners and sew the left and right side panels of the product panels, respectively, to the middle sections of the skirt panels. Trim each seam allowance to about 7 mm in width, overcast them together, and iron them to the front/back center line. Use thick zigzag stitches to finish the skirt panels’ lower edges.

We either assign the skirt panels for pleating or perform the triple pleating ourselves, with a 1.5 cm pleat width.

Stage two

We now have to wait for the product to be sewn together.

When sewing a skirt by hand, we stitch the right side cuts (two different kinds of fabric) together by drawing a line through the pleat’s inner fold.

We count the number of folds (59, 61, 64, 67, 69, and 72) from the front fabric’s left side cut and sew it on the left side, making a line in the pleat’s inner fold and leaving an open cut measuring 18 centimeters at the top.

Iron the allowance obliquely at the upper end of the seam, along the edge of the back fabric cut, starting from the upper end of the left side seam. Cut the left side seam allowances below the cut to 7 mm in width, then overcast together. We stack one pleat atop the other at a width of 4 mm along the upper cut of the pleats. When the skirt is completed and closed, its upper cut measures 65*69*73*77*81*85 cm.

Fold the belt in half lengthwise with the wrong side inward and iron it. Lay out the belt again. Sew it to the top edge of the skirt, sewing the allowance for the belt fastener to the depth of the fold of the back edge of the cut, then leave the allowance for the belt fastener protruding. Iron the seam allowances for attaching the belt and the allowance along the other longitudinal cut of the belt onto the belt. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, face inward. Sew the short cuts at the ends of the belt. Turn the belt inside out. Next, sew the inner cut by hand! Sew the lower edges of the allowance for the fastener. Overcast the loop at the front end of the belt. Close the cut with buttons.

The long skirt with pleats is prepared!

Making a pleated skirt on your own is a gratifying endeavor that blends creativity and useful skills. You can make a fashionable and adaptable item that looks great in your wardrobe with the correct supplies and a little perseverance.

By following the instructions, you can make a pleated skirt and build confidence in your sewing skills to tackle more projects in the future. Although the procedure might seem difficult at first, the outcome is well worth the work.

Sewing a pleated skirt is a great way to show off your personal style and improve your sewing skills, regardless of experience level. Savor the process of crafting something distinctively yours!

Video on the topic

How to sew a pleated skirt Do-it-yourself pleated skirt ❤️

Online master class "Pleating Haute Couture fabric"

Pleated skirt without special forms and solutions

Master class "Pleated skirt in an hour"