How to construct a basic pattern for the base of a dress in several ways (according to Muller, in the Valentina program, according to the 10 measurements system)

Although making a dress from scratch can seem like a difficult undertaking, it can be much easier if you start with a basic pattern. Depending on your method and available tools, you can build a dress’ base pattern in a number of ways.

A traditional method that many dressmakers employ is the Muller method. It requires exact measurements and a thorough drafting process to create a pattern that is precisely sized to fit the body. This technique is especially renowned for its precision and polished outcome.

The Valentina program provides a contemporary option for individuals who are more comfortable with software. You can digitally create a base dress pattern by entering your measurements into this open-source pattern drafting tool. It’s a fantastic way to incorporate both traditional sewing methods and technology.

Another technique for streamlining the process is the ten measurements system. Ten essential body measurements will help you to create a basic pattern that can be used as the basis for many different dress styles. Both novices and seasoned dressmakers can benefit from this method’s efficiency and accessibility.

Muller"s method for constructing a basic pattern for a women"s dress

The German tailor Michael Müller developed a cutting system more than 125 years ago that allows for precise construction of clothing patterns while accounting for each person’s unique figure. Although the method is not the easiest, it is extremely accurate. Müller’s method divides the body into segments and accounts for the figure’s features in the proportionate computation of deviations from the standard.

As an illustration, let’s look at creating a simple pattern for a straight dress.

We will consider the allowances (= P) for a free fit for the sizes when building:

• armhole height at the back – 2-3 cm;
• back width – 1.5-2.0 cm;
• armhole width – 2.5-3.5 cm;
• chest width – 1.5-2.0 cm.

We need to take measurements in order to create the foundation of a women’s dress (you can create it with your own measurements; we’ll supply the data):

• chest circumference (= OG) – 85 cm;
• waist circumference (= OT) – 62 cm;
• hip circumference (= OB) – 95 cm;
• back length to waist (= BTW) – 44 cm;
• product length (= DL) – 100 cm;
• chest height 1 (= BB 1) – 34 cm;
• length to front waist 1 (= WW 1) – 56 cm.

Let’s do some initial computations for models whose OG is greater than 80 cm:

• armhole height at the back (= APHR Z)** = OG : 10 + 10.5 cm = 19 cm; VPR Z + P = 19 cm + 2(3) cm = 19 cm + 2 cm = 21 cm;
• hip height (= HH) = HHP Z + HH = 19 cm + 44 cm = 63 cm;
• rear neck width (= Wsh W) = OG: 20 + 2 cm = 85: 20 + 2 cm = 6.3 cm;
• chest height 2 (= BG 2) = BG 1 – Shsh 3 = 34 cm – 6.3 cm = 27.7 cm;
• front length to waist 2 (= accident 2) = accident 1 – Shsh 3 = 56 cm – 6.3 cm = 49.7 cm;
• back width (= ШС)** = OG: 8 + 5.5 cm = 85: 8 + 5.5 cm = 16, 125 cm; Shs + P = 16.125 cm + 1.5(2.0) cm = 18 cm;
• armhole width (= ШПр)** = OG: 8 – 1.5 cm = 85:8 – 1.5 cm = 9.125 cm; ShPr + P = 9.125 cm + 2.5(3.5) cm = 12 cm;
• chest width (= CH)** = OG : 4 – 4 cm = 85 : 4 – 4 cm = 17.25 cm; ШГ + П = 17.25 cm + 1.5(2.0) cm = 19 cm.

When drawing, the values indicated by ** are taken with free fit allowances (P).

The sum ((VPr 3 + P) + (ShS + P) + (ShPr + P) + (ShG + P)) should equal (OG : 2 + P) = (OG : 2 + 5.0 (7.5) cm for a properly drawn drawing.

We will then learn how to create patterns.

A sheet of tracing paper that is at least (OG: 2 + 0.3) meters wide and at least (DI + 15 cm) long is required.

Mark the point (∙) O by stepping down 10 cm from the upper right corner and then 5 cm to the left. Draw a downward straight line. We deduct OT = DTS = 44 cm, OB = VB = 63 cm, OH = DI = 1000 cm, and OG = VPr 3 + P = 21 cm along it.

Draw horizontal lines through each of the following data points (∙): O, the top line, G, the chest line, T, the waist line, B, the hip line, and H, the bottom line.

We set aside 2 cm from (∙) B to the left, and then we place (∙) B1. Draw a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line from (∙) O through (∙) B1. As illustrated in the drawing, we indicate (∙) the points where this line intersects with horizontal lines. The back’s center line has been constructed.

G1G2 = ΨΡ + μ = 18 cm is set aside to the left of (∙) G1. Next, we take measurements of Γ2Γ3 = 2/3 (ШПр + μ) = 8 cm, Γ3Γ4 = 10 cm + 13 cm, Γ4Γ5 = 1/3 (ШПр + Ο) = 4 cm, and G5G6 = ShG + P = 19 cm in a sequential manner.

G6G4 + G3G1 = (OG : 2 + P) = 49 cm is verified.

We draw verticals through the indicated (∙) – see drawing. The front’s center line will be the line that passes through (∙) G6.

We indicate (∙) O1 at the point where the horizontal through (∙) O and the vertical through (∙) G2 intersect.

OO2 = Shsh 3 = 6.3 cm is set aside from (∙) O to the left. When dealing with a large OG, OO2 = Shsh 3 – 0.5 cm. We will be in (∙) O3 after rising 2 cm from (∙) O2. creates a rolling out pattern line.

We measure down O1O4 = 1.0 (1.5) cm from (∙) O1. We sketch a straight line from (∙) O3 through M O4. Measure O4O5 = 1.5 (2.0) cm for small sizes, 1.0 (1.5) cm for medium sizes, and 0 (1) cm for large sizes along its left side.

We placed (∙) P1 in the middle of the G2O4 segment. Draw a line through it horizontally, putting P1P1′ = 1 cm to the left. We placed (∙) P2 in the middle of the segment P1G2. Draw a line through it that is horizontal. We indicate (∙) P4 at its intersection with the vertical from (∙) G5. P2P3 = 1.3 (1.5) cm (directly proportional to the size) is placed to the left of (∙) P2. The armhole pattern line is drawn starting at (∙) O5 and moving perpendicular to the shoulder line until it reaches (∙) G3.

On the waist line, we placed (∙) T1 and (∙) T2. To the right of (∙) G6, we measure G6G7 = OG along the chest line: 10 + 0.5 cm = 9 cm. Draw a vertical line, and place (∙) T4 at the intersection with the waist line. We can measure upwards from it using T4O7 = Δ΢Ο 2 = 49.7 cm. We descend to �\7Γ8 = ΒΓ 2 = 27.7 cm from (∙) �\7.

We ascend straight up from (∙) Γ5 to Γ5�\6 = Γ2�\4 – (1.0…1.5 cm). We raise the subtracted value as the shoulder tilt rises.

We create radius notches from (∙)G8 and (∙)G5 through M O7 and M O6. Radius values: Γ5�\6 and Γ8�\7.

Along the arc line, we measure �\6�\8 = �\γ from (∙) �\6 as follows: 20 – (0.5…1.0) = 3.25 cm. An arc with a radius of (�\3�\5 – 1 cm) = 14 cm is drawn from (∙) �\8. For a fit, we will reduce the shoulder line by one centimeter. We place (∙) �\9 at the intersection of the arcs.

We will then construct the front armhole.

From (∙) �\8 to (∙) ΢4, draw a straight line. We placed (∙) Η5 in the segment’s center. We set aside 1 centimeter from it to the left along the perpendicular, mark (∙) μ6. We draw a template line from (∙) �\8 to (∙) Γ4 through (∙) Ο6 and (∙) Ύ4. It should initially be perpendicular to the shoulder line in this instance.

Drawing a line perpendicular to the middle line of the shelf from (∙) O7, we arrive at (∙) O10. We measure 6.3 cm from it to the right (= O10O11 = ΨΨ Η). The rollout width for large values of Γ�\ is O10O11 = ΨΨ Η – 0.5 cm. The rollout has a depth of 7.5 cm (= O10O12 = ΨΨ Η + 1.2 cm). Sketch the O10Γ5 segment. We set aside O10O13 = ШѨ ̗ + 0.5–0.8 cm along it. We use a pattern line to join (∙) O12, (∙) O13, and (∙) O11.

We create a segment O9O14 = O11O7 = 3 cm from (∙) O9. By joining (∙) O14 and (∙) G8, we can obtain the dart’s right border. We measure up G8O15 = G8O14 from (∙) G8. We sketch the O11O15 segment.

We set aside O3O16 = 3…5 cm to build a dart on the back from (∙) O3 along the shoulder line to the left. Lowering the perpendicular to the shoulder blade line, we place (∙) L. You must cut along the drawn line if you are creating the foundation of a dress for a figure with convex shoulder blades and a noticeable stoop. A dart is formed when the pattern is moved apart. Since there is no need, we will not take this action in our situation.

The control points for the sleeve sewing are marked. In back, Ks equals P3. From (∙) G5 upward, we measure G5 = 1⁄4 (Shpr + P) = 2 cm on the front.

We made allowances along the back and front waistlines, T2T5 = 1-2 cm and T3T6 = 0.5-1 cm, respectively, to build the side lines. The lateral lines are drawn by us. We denote (∙) B2 and (∙) B3 at the intersection of their lines with the hip line. We use (∙) B4 to indicate where the hip line and the middle front line cross.

We verify that (1/2 OB + 3 cm) is less than (B4B3 + B2B1). In the event that this is not the case, we expand the parts along the side lines more.

We draw a straight line from (∙) H1, perpendicular to the back’s middle line. We designate (∙) H2 as the point where it intersects the side line. From there, we draw a horizontal line to where it intersects the front side line, and we place (∙) H3. We sketch a straight line for the dress’s hem.

Finally, in order to obtain the ideal pattern, we must consider the shift of the shoulder line. The shoulder line is lowered by 1 cm on the front and raised by the same amount on the back.

The Müller system dress base pattern has been completed in terms of construction.

Cutting according to the 10 measurements system

Irina Paukshte’s method for creating patterns is incredibly accurate, and the final products fit the figure flawlessly.

The Paukšte cutting system has long been a favorite among both novice and expert tailors.

The following characteristics of this easy pattern-building technique are present:

• only ten measurements are enough. In this case, the accuracy of measurements is of particular importance. Instructions on how to correctly take the main measurements can be viewed in the video with Irina Paukshte;

• construction of the main pattern does not require complex calculations, it can be done quite quickly;
• Paukshte cutting system is an ideal choice for constructing a dress pattern with a sleeve, since the articulation of the armhole is very accurate. In this case, the sleeve pattern is drawn directly in the armhole;
• the bust dart is calculated using the residual method, that is, drawing the remaining parts automatically brings to the desired dart width;
• ease of modeling – Paukshte patterns can be easily changed for a different sleeve shape or silhouette of a women"s dress;
• the technique takes into account the optimal allowance for a free fit – for elastic fabrics and when sewing corsets, as well as for sizes 44 and smaller, the allowance is 2 cm. For all other cases it must be at least 3 cm.

Irina Paukshte has a series of online lessons that cover building a simple grid, back and front patterns, and armhole calculations.

Using a computer program to accurately construct a basic pattern

Elena Fomenkova suggests creating a dress pattern with the "Valentina" computer program. It is available for free download on the Internet.

Let’s examine some of the program’s most common terminology.

The figure below displays the dress’s primary design lines.

The measurements that are needed for building are denoted by letters. We start the program under the letter C and measure the half-girths of the hips, waist, and chest. These are the measurements that the axis of symmetry divides vertically.

Complete girths that are not split are written in its entirety. We use the letter O to stand for them. Every detail is considered, including the girths of the wrists, ankles, legs, and arms.

The letters L (= length), W (= width), and H (= height) stand for the remaining measurements, which are used in their entirety.

Let’s examine the measurements required for construction in more detail.

Tie a lace before taking waist measurements. It is suggested by Elena Fomenkova to allow for a free fit on half of the drawing.

• Сг 1 – half-girth of the chest 1. We measure along the convexity of the shoulder blades, through the armpits, closing above the chest;
• Сг 2 – half-girth of the chest 2. Measured similarly to the previous one, but through the protruding points of the chest;
• h – the distance from the center of the chest to the level of measurement Сг 1;

• Прг – allowance for free fit to 1⁄2 of the total chest measurement. Depends on the silhouette and is selected from 0 to 3 cm;
• Дпл – dress length. Measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the desired length;
• Пршгр – allowance for free fit to the width of the chest. Depends on the silhouette and is selected from 0 to 1 cm;
• Prshsp – allowance for free fit along the width of the back. Amounts to 7…1.5 cm;
• Dst – length of the back to the waist. Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam;
• Dst 7 – back length to waist from the 7th cervical vertebra;
• Dpt – front length to waist. Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam through the protruding point of the chest.

• Prshg – neck width allowance. selected from 0 to 4 cm;
• Ssh – 1⁄2 of the girth of the base of the neck. Measure along the place where the neck of the dress passes;
• Dp – shoulder length;
• Vg – from the highest (∙) shoulder to the protruding point of the chest;
• Vgk – cm. picture below;

• Cg – distance between the centers of the chest;

• Vprs – back armhole height;
• Vprp – front armhole height;
• Vprb – side armhole height;

• Shs – back width;
• Shg – chest width;
• St – 1⁄2 of the waist girth;
• Prt – waist allowance. selected from 2 to 4 cm;
• Сб – 1⁄2 hip circumference;
• Прб – hip allowance. Select from 1 to 10 cm;
• Вт – sum of darts at the waist. Calculated value determined as the difference (Сг 2 + Прг) – (Ст + Ппт);
• Ввспб – height of the dart of the back of the hips;
• Вб – height of the hips;
• Ввпб – height of the dart of the front of the hips.

These measurements are used to create a basic dress pattern, which can be manually created on paper or created in the Valentina program.

Let’s look at how to create a pattern on paper step-by-step.

Basic grid

Draw vertical lines at a distance of Ργ 2 + Οрг along the sheet’s edges. The front and back’s middle lines are these. Place point A2 above the front’s middle line. From there, find the location of the front’s highest point by taking a 25 cm measurement perpendicular to the left.

After measuring down Dpt from point A2, we arrive at point T1. Point T should be at the intersection of a line drawn perpendicularly from it and drawn to the left, to the middle of the back.

We calculate the values of Dst 7 and Dst from this (∙).

Place A and (∙) A6 in place. Mark H and measure down Dpl from A6. Draw a perpendicular from it to the front’s middle line, and then insert H1. grid is built.

Neckline

Horizontally from the point Next, we reserve 1/2 of the neck width (i.e., 1/3 Ρ̈), and place A3. On the front pattern from A2, we set aside the same value and put A4. We deduct the width of the neck plus 1.5 cm starting at A2. We entered A5.

The neckline lines A3A6 and A4A5 are drawn.

The shoulder line of the front and the bust dart

We figure out the dart solution. h = Ργ 2 – Ργ 1.

We measure down Βγ from A2, so mark A7.

From it, point A8 is located along the perpendicular, or Φγ. The first dart line is in segment A8A4. We put the designation "h" up from A8.

We measure the calculated dart solution to the left of h, where we mark A9.

The second dart line is drawn from A8 to H, and A10 is marked. We create an arc notch with a radius of Δο + Οршο from it. We create the second notch from (∙) A8 with a radius of Βгк. We indicate (∙) A11 at the point where the arcs intersect. It will be the shoulder seam’s lowest point. From it to A10, we draw a line representing the shoulder seam.

Back shoulder line

From point A down we put aside the value responsible for the slope of the shelf. It is equal to (Bg – Bgk). Mark (∙) A12. From it we draw a horizontal line to the right about 30 cm long. From (∙) A3 we make a notch with a radius of (Dp + Prshsp + dart size). Calculate the dart size as 0.13 Dp. Round the result to a whole number. At the intersection of the arc with the horizontal, put (∙) A14. At a distance of 3.5 cm (a constant value for all sizes) from A3, put (∙) A15. From it, measure along the line the dart solution (= 0.13 Dp), (∙) A17.

Set the dart’s length aside and descend from A15. It is equivalent to 9 cm for all sizes; enter A16. Sketch the A15A16 and A16A17 segments. The first segment should be extended upward by 3 mm, (∙) A18.

A segment equal to A1A18 should be set aside along the straight line A16A17. Join A3A18 and A19A14 to finish the shoulder seam construction.

Armhole

Set aside 1⁄2 Shs + a wiggle room from the back’s center line. We measure upward from the line waist to Βпрсп. We indicate (∙) where A21 intersects.

A similar (∙) can be found on the shelf at the point where the size (Ψγ + Οршγ) and Βοрο intersect. We possess a dart. As a result, we measure the formula at the h level and multiply the outcome by the size (h – A9). We sketch a line. Below, we form Впрп. At the junction with A23 (∙).

Measure from the level of the waist Впрб to determine the lower (∙) armhole. Split the length of the verticals that are drawn through A21 and A23 in half. A26 is the point where the middle vertical and the Βпрб measurement intersect.

An armhole like that goes well with a sleeveless sheath dress. For models that have sleeves, make the armhole deeper by one to one and a half centimeter.

Side seams

Place A30 where the perpendicular from A26 and the dress’s bottom meet. Place A25 where the waist line and the perpendicular intersect.

Measure down Βα from A25 and put A31.

Using the formula (Ρα + Οрб) – (Ργ2 + Οрγ), find the difference between the volumes of the hips and chests. On both sides of A31, set aside 1/2 of the outcome. Raise the waist line by 1 centimeter on the side seams and insert A27. Draw the A27T1 and TA27 lines.

Darts at the waist

Using the above-mentioned formula, compute W. Assign the outcome to the front (1/4), side (1/4) and back (1/2).

We set aside half of the dart in each direction starting at A27.

We have placed A32 in the middle of TA28. We can measure the heights Βвсл = A32 – A37 and Βвспα = A32 – A38 from it in both vertical directions.

We draw the back A40Ð37ΐ39ΐ38 waist dart.

We derive a perpendicular to A29^�1 from point A8 to A33. We descend 2 cm at point A34 along the line (for all sizes). We extend A8ΐ33, point A41, at a distance of Ввпα from the line T1А29.

Measuring 1/2 of the front dart from A33 in both directions yields A35 and A36. We put together the front A41ΐ35ΐ34ΐ36 dart. The side seams of the front A26ΐ29А42А44 and the rear A26ΐ28А43А45 are drawn. The fundamental pattern is put together.

In the video, the construction is also visible.

Example of constructing a pattern for a knitted dress

We will utilize the European cutting system that the website "Sewing Master" suggests in order to create a pattern.

Since there are no darts, the pattern for a dress made of elastic materials appears simpler.

We measure in the same way as the prior approach was explained.

By adding a negative allowance for free fit, we will account for the characteristic of knitted fabrics to stretch in both the longitudinal and transverse directions. The product will fit a half-chest circumference of 2 cm less if it fits correctly. They will be split equally between the front and back.

Since the pattern construction process is similar to the previous procedure, we will stick to step-by-step drawings and calculation formulas.

Back

Bprz + allowance equals AG.

Dst 2 + allowance equals At.

TB (for all sizes) equals 18 cm.

AA1 equals 2.5 cm in all dimensions.

1/3 Ssh + 5–7 mm equals AA2.

Shp + allowance equals AA3.

1⁄2 (Sg 2 + 1⁄2 Pr) = GG2.

P2P3 (for all sizes) equals 1.2 cm.

(St + 1 cm) / TT1 = 1⁄2.

1⁄2 (Sb – 1 cm) is BB1.

Front

1/3 Ssh + 5–7 mm equals BB1.

G3G5 equals 1/(Sg 2 + 1/(1⁄2) Pr.

1⁄2 (St + 1 cm) = T2T3.

= 1⁄2 (Sb – 1 cm) for B2B3.

Measured from H2 down, it is 1 cm.

Example of constructing a basic pattern of a fitted dress

We will utilize the drawings from the "Sew with me" website for clarity.

We measure things. You won’t have any trouble figuring it out because the measurement designations on the "Sew with me" website match the designations in our earlier descriptions.

As in the previous description, we will stick to formulas and detailed drawings only.

We put the height measurements aside.

• AH = Di;
• AT = Dts + Pdts;
• AG = Vprz + Pspr;
• Tb = Dlb = 20 cm;
• TT’ = 1.5 cm.

The following formulas are used to determine the width of the front and back on the "Sew with me" website:

• back: Г’Г2 = Шс + 0.2Пг;
• front: Шг + 0.1Пг + 0.5 (Сг2 – Сг1).

Back

Ϊ́ΐ2 = 1/3Ρ̈ + Ο̈γs;

* ΐ2А21 = 1/3 АА2 + Οвгs.

Two radii are used on the "Sew with me" website to find the shoulder slope:

* R1 = Dart + 1.5 cm + 0.5 cm = Ψο;

• R2 = T’P1 = Bpx + Pdts;

We measure 4 cm from A2 (for all sizes) down to 12 cm. Solution for a dart: 1.5 cm. The "Sew with me" website highlights the importance of equal side lengths for the dart.

We lengthen the dart to the line of the shoulder blades if it will be moved to the side during additional modeling.

The armhole is then constructed—see drawing.

Front

We reduce the waist circumference:

• 40-42 p.: by 0.5 cm;
• 44-48 p.: 0.7 … 1.0 cm;
• 50-56 p.: 1.2…2.0 cm;
• 58 p. and more: more than 2 cm.

T11A11 = Dtp = Pdtp.

G1G5 is equal to Cg plus 0.5 cm.

Bg + 1/2 Pdtp = A3G6.

2(Cg2 – Cg1) = A3A5.

Two radii will be used to build the shoulder slope:

*Bpkp + 1/2 Pdtp = *G6P5.

Armhole construction is shown in centimeters on the above drawing.

We measure the front’s width along the line through P6.

We use construction to verify this size. We indicate where the pocket’s entrance is.

We create segments G’G4 = B’B21 of equal length.

We take the value of (Sb + Pb) – G’G1 and expand the hips by it, setting aside its equal parts on each side.

We split the darts’ total size, T’T1 – (St + Pt), into four sections:

We create the bottom line design.

Method	Description
Muller	Based on precise measurements, this method uses a grid system to draw the dress pattern. Ideal for those who prefer traditional, accurate construction.
Valentina Program	A software tool that helps you create a dress pattern digitally. It’s user-friendly and customizable, great for modern pattern designers.
10 Measurements System	Focuses on using just 10 key measurements to quickly create a basic dress pattern. It’s simpler but still provides a good fit.

There are various ways to go about creating a basic dress pattern, and each has advantages and disadvantages. The aim is always the same, whether you’re working with the 10 measurements system, the digital Valentina program, or the traditional Muller technique: to create a pattern that fits well and forms the basis for future designs.

The Muller method is extremely detailed and places a strong emphasis on accuracy in drafting and measurements. It’s perfect for people who work well with manual calculations and templates and who would rather take an organized approach.

Conversely, Valentina provides a contemporary, digital solution. For people who enjoy using technology and find it convenient to see real-time pattern adjustments on their screens, this is ideal. For those who frequently alter designs, this software’s easy modification feature is a huge plus.

Beginners can easily understand the method thanks to the simplified approach offered by the 10 measurements system. It simplifies the process by concentrating on a small number of crucial measurements, which enables quicker drafting and less complexity. For individuals who are new to creating patterns, this can be an excellent place to start.

You can select the approach that best suits your abilities, tastes, and project requirements by being aware of these various methods. Whichever route you choose, learning the fundamentals of pattern construction is a must for making tailored, well-fitting clothing.

Depending on your preferences and the tools you have on hand, there are a few different ways you can create a basic dress pattern. One strategy is the Muller method, a time-honored method that requires precise measurements for customization. Alternatively, you could use the Valentina program, which makes it simple to create digital patterns. Finally, by concentrating on ten crucial body measurements to rapidly draft a base pattern, the 10 measurements system streamlines the procedure. With different benefits for varying skill levels and project requirements, each method is different.

Video on the topic

Construction of the base simple calculation.

10 MEASUREMENTS. Pattern base dress, blouse.

Construction of the Basic Pattern of the base of the shoulder garment {very simple method}!