Flannel fabric is a soft and cozy “winter cotton”: properties, application, advantages and disadvantages

On a chilly day, flannel fabric is like a warm hug. This type of material evokes images of warm blankets, cozy pajamas, and soft shirts. Flannel, also known as "winter cotton," is adored for its cozy warmth and velvety feel.

Throughout the winter, this fabric has been a go-to option for staying warm. Its construction, which uses microscopic fibers to produce a fuzzy surface ideal for retaining heat and keeping you warm, is what gives it its softness.

This post will discuss the unique qualities of flannel, its typical applications, and its benefits and drawbacks. Everything you need to know about flannel, whether you’re considering adding it to your wardrobe or are simply inquiring about its properties, can be found right here.

What is flannel

A noticeable fleece in the form of a soft pile is present in the dense, soft fabric known as flannel. The French word "flanelle" means "wool," while the Old French word "flaine" meant "blanket." The story behind this fabric’s name has multiple variations. One of them claims that in the language of the Welsh, the native people of Wales, the word "flannel" means "woolen fabric." According to a number of accounts, Welsh artisans in England were the first to learn how to create this material from sheep’s wool in the 17th or even 16th century.

Sheep wool was the raw material used to make flannel fabric up until the turn of the 20th century. Wool flannel was also referred to as "winter cotton" due to its distinct softness. Subsequently, cotton flannel—which shares many characteristics with wool—appears.

Nowadays, cotton is used more frequently than wool to make flannel fabric. Its composition frequently consists of blended, synthetic, and viscose fibers.

Flannel fabric is a warm and cozy "winter cotton" that is ideal for cold weather apparel and bedding. It has a rustic charm and is known for its softness and warmth. However, it’s important to balance its benefits—such as breathability and insulation—against potential drawbacks, such as shrinkage and pilling over time.

A bit of history

The soft, dense, and long-lasting material known as flannel is said to have originated in Wales, which was part of the British Empire during the 17th and 18th centuries and was considered to be one of the most conservative regions. The Welsh, who originally lived here, were the ones who woven a thick cloth from combed sheep wool, which eventually evolved into the contemporary flannel fabric over the ages.

It was not an inexpensive material at first. It was also said to have some medicinal qualities, which increased the fabric’s cost. It is of course unproven whether or not flannel works as a medicine. Though there is a description of the treatment of inflamed joints in the book Gulliver by English author Jonathan Swift, it involves first rubbing the joints with cognac and then wrapping them in soft flannel.

Among their many secrets of fabric production, the Welsh learned how to make multicolored fabrics from pure wool. In addition, no coloring or dyes were applied. Natural-colored black, brown, and white yarn made from sheep wool were twisted into various configurations. In order to achieve lighter hues, sulfur dioxide was used to bleach the wool.

Thanks to Peter I, the information eventually spread to other European nations as well as Russia.

How and from what flannel is made

Flannel is a type of fabric that falls under the pile materials category and can be either cotton or semi-woolen. Its uniformly distributed, soft pile is its distinguishing feature. Additionally, the pile may be found on one or both of the fabric’s sides.

Only sheep wool was used to make flannel until the end of the 19th century. The initial cotton fabric samples surfaced at the start of the 1900s. Woolen and semi-woolen flannel production started to decline by century’s end. However, the material’s composition started to include artificial and synthetic fiber additives.

The primary raw material used to make flannel fabric these days is heterogeneous cotton fiber. As a result, a portion of the fabric’s pile surface is reached. The GOST describes flannel as a material that is naturally composed of 100% cotton and has a density of 175 g / m 2 ± 5 g.

Several weaving techniques, including twill, rapeseed, and plain, are used to create the material. The twill weaving technique is typically used to create a rare double-sided pile through which the thread pattern is visible.

Strong cotton, wool, and semi-woolen threads are used to weave the fabric; synthetic or viscose is occasionally added to the natural raw materials, but never more than 20% of the total. Carded yarn with a thickness of medium is used as the foundation; its density ranges from 42 to 60%. More voluminous machine yarn with a density of 53-60% is utilized for the weft.

There are never any gaps between threads when they are connected using the densest and simplest method, plain weaving. As a result, the fabric is thick and dense. It has a maximum weight of 400–500 grams per meter and a maximum density of 178–258 grams per square meter.

A variety of flannel varieties with novel qualities have entered the textile market as a result of experiments with the fabric’s composition and the application of contemporary technologies.

Types of flannel

There exist multiple varieties of this substance, which can be classified into distinct groups based on factors such as the type of raw materials utilized, technological characteristics, application range, and additional fabric attributes.

By composition

Since flannel fabric first appeared until the present, the raw materials’ composition has progressively changed. This parameter allows us to differentiate between three different kinds of flannel fabric:

  • wool (100% or mainly wool);
  • semi-wool (a mixture of cotton and wool);
  • cotton (100% or mainly cotton fibers).

By the method of dyeing, applying a pattern and processing technique

In this category, the fabric’s processing—bleaching, dying, or not processing it at all—is used as the foundation for classifying the material into subspecies.

Slaked

This is an unpainted, bleached fabric that is pleasant to the touch and soft. Cotton fabric is bleached at the beginning of production to produce a white material with a consistent color. Cotton fiber isn’t always white in its initial state. It has other shades most of the time. Diapers, newborn bedding sets, and children’s suits are all made from bleached flannel. Alternatively, it can be dyed in various tones and then patterned.

Unprocessed

This is a densely structured, somewhat rough cloth that hasn’t been processed in any way—it hasn’t been bleached or dyed. Because it falls under the technical fabric category, raw flannel is utilized for technical purposes. For instance, it’s employed in industry, to make napkins for wiping different surfaces, and to beat the hammers in a piano.

Simple colored

The most prevalent subspecies of flannel textiles are those that are colored in only one color. The fabric is woven using separately dyed threads. Unlike dying the finished fabric, this method gives the fabric a strong, consistent coloring on both the inside and the outside without any noticeable transitions. This fabric is used to make suits, coats, and home apparel.

Printed

One side of the completed cloth is adorned with a pattern that is stuffed onto its surface. It’s not apparent from the back. This process produces vibrant, saturated color that rapidly loses its original look.

White-earth

A variety of flannel bleached. Usually on the outside of the fabric, a delicate pattern is applied to its white surface. Children’s clothes, sleepwear, and linens are all sewn with it.

Gruntovaya

Another kind of bleached substance. Similar to white-earth flannel, dyes are typically applied to the outer, primed side of the material. With this type of dying, children, those with sensitive skin, and allergy sufferers can safely use the fabric because the pigment does not come into contact with their skin. It doesn’t cause skin irritation, rashes, or other undesirable side effects.

By application

Textile workers divide flannel into its main groups based on what is sewn from it.

Robe

It is obvious from the name—albeit conditional—what is meant to be done with a robust, wear-resistant material that has different patterns on one or both sides.

Not only are robes made from a soft, cozy, wonderfully warming material, but also other home apparel such as pajamas, nightgowns, house dresses, and children’s clothing.

Robe flannel is unique in that it has a pattern on a colored background, a double-sided or single-sided pile, and a high textile density. Rare is a pattern on a white background.

Top

This is an additional variety of flannel fabric, whose demand rises and falls over time.

In the mid-1800s, workers were the only people to wear brightly colored flannel shirts. The appearance of the legendary lumberjack Paul Bunyan in American culture has given rise to the "lumberjack shirts" with their black and red check pattern, which have become a mainstay of fashion. Following World War II, shirting fabric reached its zenith in popularity thanks to American writer and Beat movement pioneer Jack Kerouac.

The American singer, composer, and artist Kurt Cobain, who demonstrated a heightened interest in checkered "flannels," epitomized the second wave of demand for these shirts in the 1990s.

Prints make it simple to identify shirting fabric. It’s usually a check, but occasionally it’s a strip. Synthetics and artificial fibers may be present in dense material with a small pile in addition to cotton.

Nevertheless, flannel is also used to sew other items.

Classic suit wool or semi-woolen fabric is used to sew suits and coats.

The material comes in various shades of gray, checkerboard, striped, and plain designs.

Dress fabric with a printed pattern is used to sew dresses and suits; viscose is typically added to the composition.

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From children’s printed or single-color delicate clothing, which has a looser density.

By density

This fabric generally has a lot of weight to it because the material is heavy. Additionally, the surface density indicator varies according to the particular kind of flannel fabric. Warm suits, coats, and outerwear are sewn using fabrics with a high density. for shirts, home clothes, bathrobes, and bed linens, with medium and low indicators.

Flannel is separated by density into:

  • light – 160 g/m2;
  • average – 175-258 g/m2;
  • heavy – 270 g/m2 .

Properties of flannel

  • The material is pleasant to the tactile sensations – the pile makes the surface soft and delicate. Even wool flannel, unlike ordinary woolen materials, does not irritate the skin and does not prick.
  • Heat-saving – durable and soft fabric, thanks to the special structure of the fabric, retains body heat well. It’s not for nothing that it is classified as a “winter fabric”. Ideal material for sewing clothes for cool weather and in the off-season. It is never cold in things made of soft flannel.
  • Breathable – due to its natural composition and structure, the fabric "breathes" well, providing free air circulation, eliminating the greenhouse effect and excessive sweating.
  • Hygroscopic – the property of the material to absorb and retain moisture in the fibers. At the same time, flannel provides the body with useful dry warmth. However, increased hygroscopicity can also be a disadvantage of flannel fabric, which takes longer to dry than other natural fabrics.
  • High strength, which is ensured by the dense weaving of threads.
  • Wear resistance – resistant to bending, folds, stretching and abrasion.
  • Hypoallergenic – natural cotton material is safe for allergy sufferers. However, you should be careful with clothes made of wool or semi-woolen flannel.
  • Minimal wrinkling.
  • High density – the surface density of the fabric, depending on the production method and composition, can range from 160 g / m 2 to 270 g / m 2 .
  • Good hygienic properties.
  • Low price.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material according to customer reviews

It is impressive that the market for flannel fabric has remained stable over several centuries. What has made flannel so popular with consumers? What they cover in their reviews the most frequently is as follows:

  • unusual softness – the fabric only becomes softer from wash to wash;
  • flannel items are not clothes for one day: the fabric is difficult to tear or somehow spoil by mechanical action on it;
  • flannel clothes are easy to care for – especially those made of cotton;
  • wool flannel will be more capricious in care, but if you follow the manufacturer"s recommendations, nothing will happen;
  • bright colors and patterns – you can choose fabric for different clothes: checkered patterns for shirts, floral patterns, abstractions, cartoon characters for children"s and women"s clothes, various stripes in men"s clothing;
  • the availability of the material is perhaps one of the important advantages of this fabric: bleached fabric can be purchased for 30 rubles per meter, the most expensive – negligee for 100-110 rubles / meter.

The drawbacks are minimal, but they are nonetheless present. Still, it would be incorrect to characterize them as crucial. Certain drawbacks mentioned below might not materialize if the fabric is properly cared for.

  1. Flannel items take a long time to dry

Here, hygroscopicity has both advantages and disadvantages. You hardly notice water droplets when wringing out the laundry because the molecules are held in place by the villi. As the fabric dries, moisture naturally evaporates. Furthermore, this is a slow process.

  1. The fabric shrinks

This characteristic is shared by nearly all natural fabrics. However, it is particularly important for items made of woolen flannel or with viscose added.

  1. Pills form with long wear
  1. Wrinkling

This is more common with cotton flannel, which can have folds and creases on its surface. It’s true that they smooth out quickly and effortlessly.

After several washes, the lint may diminish or even disappear. Even so, the fabric will remain pleasant to the touch and soft.

Important information: wool and synthetic materials found in flannel can trigger allergies.

Comparison with other materials

Many times, flannel is mistaken for fustian, flannel, and other textiles with comparable qualities. Fustian and fustian are frequently regarded as flannel fabric types. The meaning of these fabrics’ names in different dictionaries—which are essentially synonyms for the same materials—indirectly reveals this.

Dahl’s dictionary, for instance, defines flannel as "soft, fleecy fabric, thin flannel." According to the Great Soviet Encyclopedia, fustian is a thick cotton fabric made of interlacing twill or plain, that is fluffy, soft, and typically has a nap on the inside. In other words, there are a lot of features that are similar to flannel. As a matter of fact, they differ greatly from one another.

What is the difference between flannel and baize

The composition of these fabrics is remarkably similar. However, baize is a heavier, denser, and harder material than soft flannel. The latter is always on both sides and has more pile. The characteristic softness and silkiness of flannel material is absent when handling baize.

Baize fabric’s high density makes it unsuitable for sewing children’s clothes. Furthermore, flannels have a higher wear resistance and paints that do not wash off or fade.

Flannel and fustian

This material also has a flannel-like appearance. However, it is thicker and denser than baize. Fustian has a density that ranges from 162 to 255 g/m 2. The sole twill weave used in its production distinguishes fustian from fustian. The fleece only forms on one side at a time, either from the front or the back.

Flanel and fleece

A fleece is a synthetic fabric composed of polyester fibers that resembles one another on the outside. The properties are not the same. While the flannel absorbs moisture, fleas expel it.

Flannel – fabric similar to a flannel

The names of the two fabrics are not the only similarity between them. By the way, Winsette is another name for flanneling. Compared to flannel, this pile-filled, heavier cotton fabric is warmer.

Flannel and calico

When selecting bedding fabric, one can compare these two types of materials. The benefits and characteristics of flannel and calico are nearly identical. The primary distinction is that the calico can tolerate more washings without affecting the composition and kind of canvas. With flannel bedding, rollers might eventually form.

The use of flannel

Flannel is warm, soft, and pleasant to the body when used to sew a variety of textile products, such as bedding, outerwear, and diapers for babies.

Russian army soldiers’ foot wraps were made with this fabric. Socks were swapped out for them. It should be noted that this custom was only discontinued in 2007.

Men’s and women’s warm (winter) underwear was sewn up until the middle of the 20th century.

Baby clothes such as hats, undershirts, and diapers are sewed from soft cotton fabric that comes in a variety of vibrant colors and upbeat patterns. It is preferable to use printed flannel for this kind of clothing so that the baby’s skin is shielded from the printed pattern.

The baby’s delicate skin is not irritated by the soft pile of flannel diapers, as the fabric effectively absorbs moisture. Importantly, the wear-resistant material does not fade or shrink even after repeated washings, making it ideal for children’s clothing.

Not only can baby flannel diapers be used for swaddling, but they can also be used as a sheet to line a crib, stroller, or changing table. As a result, they are made in various sizes, including 120×90, 120×75, and, less frequently, 100×150 centimeters. Diapers typically cost between 100 and 130 rubles.

Flannel that has had viscose added to the blend, giving it a hint of sheen, works well for dresses, skirts, and loungewear.

Not only do evening gowns and house dresses come in printed pattern, but so do dressing gowns.

The 90s’ popular checkered shirts made of cotton, wool flannel, and semi-woolen materials are making a comeback. Fabrics with checks, occasionally with stripes, or plain in different tones are used for this.

Wool flannel that has been plainly dyed is used to make skirts, women’s dresses, coats, and suits. Dense fabric is a great choice for making coats, jackets, and men’s suits for cold weather because it holds heat well.

Bed linen is sewed from bleached flannel, which is hypoallergenic and does not irritate the skin. Additionally, it warms the body and retains heat well in cold weather.

The designs of flannel bed linens differ. Floral prints and floral patterns are the most popular prints. However, geometric patterns can also be found in abstract artwork, patchwork-style patterns, and striped and checkered patterns. The primary tones in bedding are the most peculiar hues and tints.

Soft bedspreads and cozy blankets are not only practical but also lovely because they promote calm and ease.

Recommendations for choosing fabric for different products

When selecting a flannel material, it’s crucial to start with the intended use in order to avoid mistakes:

  • robe fabric is mainly intended for sewing dressing gowns and home clothes;
  • white earth material with a printed pattern is an excellent option for children"s and women"s clothing;
  • soft, plain-dyed fabric of medium density – for bed linen, heavier dense fabric – for suits and coats;
  • durable shirting fabric is most often used for sewing women"s and men"s shirts, by the way, very fashionable now;
  • bleached soft flannel is the best option for baby diapers, undershirts and other clothes for babies;
  • raw flannel is used mainly as a technical material.

How to sew from flannel fabric

Flannel is a simple material. It is simple to use. However, the material needs to be decatized before cutting. particularly if it’s wool flannel or viscose. Decatizing entails soaking the material in warm water for twenty minutes and then wringing it out without squeezing. The remaining water ought to evaporate on its own. After drying, the fabric needs to be straightened.

If the fabric is cotton flannel, it needs to be cleaned in the same manner as a finished product before cutting.

Prior to cutting, decide which side will be the front and which side will be the back of the material if it is equally plain-dyed and has fleece on both sides. It is preferable to transfer the markings and cut out the details on fabric that has been laid out on the table in a single layer to avoid the fabric moving while being cut. The cuts need to be finished using a wide zigzag stitch or an overlock. Before sewing, the product’s details need to be frequently basted or pinned with tailor’s pins.

What to wear with flannel clothes

Flannel clothing is usually connected with cheery housecoats and casual checkered shirts. However, if you recall history, this combed material was originally thought of as a warm, supple, and breathable suit fabric.

And with the appropriate cut and material choice, flannel suits, outerwear, and evening gowns look chic and attractive today. A simple gray flannel suit, for instance, is a gentleman’s classic. Additionally, a flannel suit with stripes or checks is an example of vintage style, which is making a comeback on the catwalk.

Fashion experts advise dressing in flannel with casual chic, matching your shoes and accessories accordingly, since the material is less formal and more relaxed than smooth wool.

For instance, a tie made of antique silk in subdued hues could be a little broader than usual. Keeping with the same theme, a pocket square. When worn with solid flannel, a tie knot shouldn’t be too tiny.

One option for wearing a suit without a tie is to wear a vest instead of the tie or to wear a jacket that matches the trousers in a different shade. Gray flannel goes well with a shirt that is "champagne," "ivory," and slightly cream in color. Burgundy suede shoes that are cozy will complete the ensemble.

In terms of popularity, checkered flannel shirts have already surpassed previous records this season. Not just in men’s fashion, but also in women’s. This is a staple for the coming season. Flannel shirts go well with nearly any type of pants in men’s fashion, with the possible exception of models that are purely classic. Additionally, with cardigans, sports jackets, and simple T-shirts.

In terms of women’s fashion, oversized caged flannel shirts are having a "renaissance." In various settings, they seem impressive and comfortable. Because of the fabric’s dense texture, you can wear it over a turtleneck, for instance, making a multilayered ensemble. You can also wear it with jeans, shorts, or leggings.

When worn with jeans and an oversized T-shirt, along with accessories like sneakers, the shirt looks great for a sports outfit.

Aspect Description
Properties Flannel is a soft, warm, and breathable fabric, often made from cotton or wool, with a slightly napped surface.
Application Commonly used for winter clothing like pajamas, shirts, and bedding, providing warmth and comfort in colder weather.
Advantages Soft texture, excellent insulation, and moisture-wicking properties make it ideal for cozy garments.
Disadvantages Can shrink after washing, may pill over time, and is less durable than some other fabrics.

In particular, during the winter months, fleece fabric is a warm and cozy option. It’s a favorite for comfortable clothes and bedding because of its soft texture and natural cotton composition.

Flannel offers comfort and utility, making it a great choice for blankets, pajamas, and shirts when you want to stay warm. It’s a flexible choice for a range of applications because of its breathability and heat-retaining capacity.

Because of its warmth and softness, flannel is still a popular fabric even though it tends to pill and shrink over time. You can benefit from it for longer if you are aware of its characteristics and maintenance needs.

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Dress flannel, (warm cotton) #russia #pajamas #moscow #dresses #flannel#warmcotton

COTTON / BUY COTTON / COTTON FABRIC / FLANNEL / BUY COTTON FABRIC / CHECKED FABRIC / NICE FABRIC

Fabric. Bleached flannel 100% cotton

Bed linen made of flannel 100% cotton with sunflower

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Sergey Litvinov

I have been working in the field of textile art for over 20 years. I am passionate about textile design and create unique things inspired by traditions and modern trends. In my articles, I talk about how you can use fabrics to create unique and stylish things with your own hands.

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