Dresses for a girl of 7 years old – patterns, cutting and sewing

It can be exciting and difficult to find the ideal dress when dressing up a 7-year-old girl. Children are so creative and full of energy at this age, and it shows in the clothes they wear. Wearing a well-chosen dress can enhance self-confidence and provide ample opportunity for enjoyment and mobility, be it for a formal event or daily wear.

Making a dress for a young child requires a basic understanding of cutting, sewing, and patterns. Patterns are crucial because they give the dress’s fit and design parameters. You can make sure the dress is both comfortable and attractive with the right pattern. While sewing creates clean, long-lasting stitches that bring the design to life, cutting precisely from the selected fabric guarantees that the pieces fit together correctly.

You can follow along with me as I design, cut, and sew a dress for my 7-year-old daughter. You can make a lovely, useful garment that any young girl will love to wear by concentrating on easy techniques and helpful hints.

Elegant trapeze dress for a girl of 6-7 years old

This incredibly simple knit dress to make is perfect for any occasion: it can be worn to a school play, a matinee, or a holiday party, provided you use more subdued colored fabric. No patterns, darts, or fasteners are needed for this model; the dress can be finished in a few hours!

Video master class:

We will require the following equipment and supplies for our work:

  • 1 meter of jersey knitwear;
  • elastic tape;
  • measuring tape;
  • sharp scissors;
  • pencil;
  • threads;
  • sewing machine.

Patterns

A child’s dress has a straightforward pattern that we make ourselves. The product’s length, the sleeve length, and the chest circumference measurements are required.

Cut out a rectangle measuring 60 by 73 cm, and then sketch a design on it. Our dimensions fit a girl between the ages of seven and eight.

Two of these blanks from knitwear must be cut out (the front and back look the same).

We are now creating the sleeve pattern. The armholes ought to line up with the front and back armholes.

For a height of 7-8 years, the sleeve pattern looks like this:

How to sew a dress for a girl: master class

The blanks must first be sewn together in the armholes.

Next, stitch the dotted lines to form the side seams:

Turn the blank right side out after that.

Insert an elastic band that is 2 centimeters wide and 48–49 centimeters long along the neck after folding the edge twice and drawing a line.

Additionally, we’ll sew an elastic band onto the sleeves. We insert a 1 cm wide elastic band after folding the edges twice and drawing a line.

Next, we create the product’s lower edge by folding it twice and sewing it along the garment.

Wear it with a belt for a more refined appearance! 128521;

Sewing an elegant dress for a 7 year old girl

For newbies, this sleeveless dress is ideal! Standard fronts with a lined back, a tatyanka skirt, a back zipper, and a belt with a flower at the waist are all simple to sew. You could sew a tulle petticoat for pomp.

We need the following equipment and supplies in order to work:

  • thick jacquard;
  • cotton fabric for lining the bodice;
  • lining fabric for skirt;
  • tulle (two skirt lengths);
  • hidden zipper;
  • a piece of organza for a belt;
  • decorative flower;
  • patterns;
  • threads;
  • sharp scissors;
  • pencil;
  • sewing machine.

How to sew a dress for a girl: master class

Stage one

Adorn the lining and main fabric.

Get the pattern online and make sure it’s the right size.

Trim off the top details, being careful to keep the grain thread direction in mind. Verify that the fabric pattern is running in the same direction on every piece.

The side cuts are pinned to the bodice lining.

Sew the side cuts and use an overlocking technique.

On the skirt lining, pin the side cuts.

Sew the side cuts and use an overlocking technique.

As you steam the seams, aim them toward the dress’s back.

Place two long-stitch seams, spaced five millimeters apart, along the top of the skirt lining.

Five millimeters in from the edge, continue the wide stitch along the tulle’s upper edge.

Tulle is gathered to the lining skirt’s measurement.

Distribute the tulle folds evenly, step back 3-3.5 centimeters from the upper cut, and sew it to the lining skirt’s wrong side.

Pin the edges of the bodice and skirt lining in line with one another.

Pin the bodice lining skirts’ side seams into alignment.

Pulling the thread from the bobbin and distributing the folds evenly will gather the top edge of the lining skirt.

Tie the skirt with pins to the bodice.

Stage two

We stitched the skirt together by sewing the lining bodice in place.

We thoroughly steam and process the seam.

Two fabrics are used to make the belt: jacquard for the back and white organza for the shelf.

Two organza blanks are taken, their right sides folded inward, pinned, stitched, and the seam finished with an overlock.

After turning the belt blank to the front, we steam, sweep, and sew a final seam all the way around.

We gather the belt blank and attach the flower to it by moving it slightly out of the center.

The jacquard belt blanks are taken, folded face-to-face, stitched, turned to the front, and excess fabric is removed in the corners so that it does not extend to the line by two millimeters.

After steaming and sweeping the blanks, we stitch a final seam along the edge.

We pin the organza belt blank onto the jacquard shelf portion.

The belt piece is pinned in this manner to the jacquard back blank:

Sew, overlock, pin, and steam the bodice’s side edges, making sure the seams face the back.

Stage third

At the top of the skirt, we sewed two seams with a large step.

Combining and shaking the side sections, skate the skirt’s edge with the bodice’s edges.

Assuming a skirt, we divide the folds equally.

We use pins to secure the skirt to the fuse, grind, overlock the seam, and use steam.

Take out the assembly line for the skirts.

Join the dress’s top and lining at the neck and armholes.

Turn the top face and the lining inside out.

Both the back and shelf necks should be connected and removed.

Without getting any closer than 5-7 centimeters to the shoulder seams, we join the armhole and remove it.

We cut extra fabric where it bends, stopping short of the two millimeter seam. We switch it to the front position.

We become stuck and connect the shoulders with the face inward.

After flipping it to the front, we tie the allowances on the interior non-sealing area, roll it out, and attach the finishing seams along the neck and armhole edges.

Stitch the buttons or zipper.

We join the back skirt’s middle seam.

We work on the dress’s bottom edge.

That’s it; the outfit is prepared!

Summer dress for a girl with an open back: video master class

Choosing the appropriate patterns, cutting strategies, and sewing techniques is essential to producing dresses that are both adorable and comfortable for a 7-year-old girl. In order to guarantee that the dress fits perfectly and looks fantastic, this article covers the fundamentals of selecting appropriate patterns, the fundamentals of precisely cutting fabric, and practical sewing advice. Knowing these procedures will enable you to sew a gorgeous dress that your child will adore, regardless of your level of sewing expertise.

DIY ball gown for a girl

This festive outfit is appropriate for a kindergarten graduation as well as a first-grader’sNewYear’s ball. We won’t hold back—sewing is a labor-intensive task that demands focus, attention to detail, and accuracy. You will receive a gorgeous outfit in exchange, as well as large savings on the family budget;)

This is how the dress is drawn in the sketch:

We will require the following equipment and supplies for our work:

  • pink crepe satin – 2.5 x 1.5 meters;
  • pink soft mesh tulle with sequins – 2 x 1.5 meters;
  • hard tulle – 2 x 1.5 meters;
  • lining – 1.3 x 1.43 meters;
  • bias binding – about 5 meters;
  • a skein of fishing line 0.7-1 millimeters;
  • hidden zipper;
  • strap fasteners or ready-made straps;
  • thread;
  • pencil, sharp scissors;
  • sewing machine.

Constructing a skirt pattern

The following measurements are intended for a 7-year-old girl who is slender. We advise taking measurements on an individual basis.

The length of the skirt from the floor (D) must be measured.

We are going to stitch a three-layered sun skirt. We will also stitch a strip of stiff tulle for opulence along the bottom of the petticoat from the lining.

Cut

  • upper tier of sequined tulle mesh –
  • sun skirt, radius R1 = 10 centimeters, R2 = D (65 centimeters) + 10 centimeters;
  • lower tier of crepe satin –
  • sun skirt, radius R1 = 10 centimeters, R2 = D (65 centimeters) + 10 centimeters;
  • lining – half-sun skirt, radius R1 = 10 centimeters, R2 = (D – 7 centimeters) + 10 centimeters (7 centimeters shorter than the main skirts);
  • hard tulle – a strip 5 meters wide, 33-35 centimeters long.

Constructing a pattern for the top of the dress

Measure the height from the waist line to the top mark of the corset (Bg), the width of the back (Shs), the chest (Shg), and the armpits (Bp). Additionally, we cut out two belts of random lengths and shapes.

Tulle mesh and two layers of crepe satin will make up the three layers on the front. There are two layers on the back: crepe satin.

Pattern of a ball gown for a girl: decorative details

After cutting the petticoat, we make use of the leftover scraps.

We measure the waist circumference (Ot) and the shoulder circumference (Op).

A pink fabric strip with a width of 10 centimeters and a length of Op + 10 centimeters is required. We also cut out a strip that is 20 centimeters wide and Ot + 15 centimeters long.

Sewing a prom dress: a step-by-step master class

Stage one: top

Initially, we stitch the belt and strap components together, flip them over, and give them a thorough ironing.

We either purchase pre-made straps from a store or sew our own using the bust strap principle.

The front blanks are then sewn. Sew the two mesh and crepe satin outer pieces of the top together along the top edge.

Without fastening, use broad stitches to sew the edges in parallel. Collect the information.

Divide the creases. The measurement Ψγ equals the length of the top.

Repeat with the lower part. Complete the assembly and fit it to the inner blank’s lower cut.

Attach the straps in the following manner to the inner front blank’s face:

Keeping the straps in between the blanks, place the inner and outer front blanks face to face, align them along the top, and sew them together.

Let’s do the back next. Position the two right blanks side by side and stitch along the top, tucking the strap’s open end into the seam. Use the same method to sew the left back blanks.

After unfolding the front and back blanks, align the upper seam by placing them face-to-face along the side cuts of the front and back. Use pins to secure them.

Sew the side seam, inserting the belt into the lower edge.

Turn the workpiece inside out and iron it.

Stage two: skirt

We use bias binding to finish the lower edge of the lower skirt made of crepe satin.

Using fishing line, we create a wavy mesh bottom for the upper skirt by sandwiching it between two layers of mesh (the edges are folded to the wrong side) and sewing in a zigzag pattern.

Create waves by extending the edge just a little.

Sew two skirts together at the waist.

Assemble the piece so that the skirt’s top falls in line with the dress top’s lower edge.

Step three: petticoat

Sew the stiff tulle strip into a ring by overlocking it on all sides.

Sew the lining along the side cut, then finish the bottom and open side cuts.

Sew the tulle, running parallel to the top edge, connecting the bottom edge with the petticoat’s hem. Tulle is folded in even folds along the top.

Sew the petticoat and skirt.

Every layer four:

Step four: assembly

Pinch the skirt and bodice. Only fasten the skirt to the inner, mesh-free layer. The skirt can be made to fit the bodice by adding more folds.

Where the fastener is sewn in, leave 1 centimeter open in the center on both sides of the back. Turn the allowance inside out.

We sew the skirt after making a basting.

Attach the zipper to the exterior of the back using sewing, as follows:

After lining up the top and bottom, we stitch the zipper onto the inner portion of the ironed seam.

In this manner, all internal seams are hidden:

We cover the stitching seam by folding the corset’s bottom edge inward and drawing a line.

Step five: decor

We will make every decorative element detachable in order to create a dress that can be worn by anyone.

We cut a strip of fabric into the shape of a belt.

We sew it onto white fabric to make it tighter.

The top edges are folded inside out, sewn to the edge, and Velcro is sewn on.

We sew on the Velcro and tighten the top.

We use multiple stitches to manually fix the dress’s decoration.

You can accessorize the image with a tiara or crown.

Pattern and sewing of a school dress for girls 7 years old

Strict school uniforms from the USSR represent a whole era! It’s no coincidence that a lot of graduates sew this specific outfit in the studio for themselves. Even today, a dress like this is still relevant since it can easily be incorporated into a modern wardrobe by selecting the appropriate color and fabric. We will walk you through the process of creating a pattern for a traditional school dress in this master class, so you can sew it yourself with the least amount of time, anxiety, or money;)

Taking measurements

We provide measurements for size 36 as an example; if necessary, modify them to fit the child’s measurements.

Thus, we measure things:

  • length of the product – 76 cm;
  • back length to waist level – 31 cm;
  • half-girth of the chest – 36 cm;
  • shoulder length – 11 cm;
  • half-girth of the neck – 15 cm.

Construction of a school dress pattern

Step one: the base

Sketch the A-B-C-D rectangle. According to the measurement, the vertical lines A-D and B-C equal the product’s length, or 76 cm. The horizontal lines A-B and C-D correspond to the product’s width, or 43 cm (half the chest circumference plus 7 cm for all sizes).

Armhole depth

We draw a line 18 cm = G (1/2 half-girth of the chest plus 6 cm) from A down the segment A-D. We draw a horizontal line to the intersection from G to the right. utilizing B-C = G1.

Waist

Draw the line 31 cm (the length of the back to the waist) = T from A down the segment A-D. Draw a horizontal line to the intersection from T to the right. utilizing B-C = T1.

Hips

Draw a line 15 centimeters = L from T down the segment A-D. Draw a line to the intersection to L’s right. B-C equals L1.

Back width

Draw a line 16 cm = G2 (half-girth of the chest + 1 cm) from G to the right along G-G1. Restore the intersection’s perpendicular from G2. Make a P with A-B.

Armhole width

Draw a line measuring 11 cm from G2 to the right, which equals G3 (1/4 half-girth of the chest circumference + 2 cm). Draw a perpendicular from G3 and indicate the intersection. utilizing A-B as P1.

Shelf rise

Draw a vertical line up 2 centimeters (for all sizes) from P1 to P2. From B, we sketch a line that is 2 cm = Sh vertically. Join P2 and Sh.

Side seam line

Drawing 3 cm from G2 to the right equals G4. We descend a perpendicular to the intersection from G4. C – D equals H. Cross over. intersects with L-L1 = L2 at T-T1 = T2.

Utilize supplementary contours.

Stage two: back pattern

Neckline

Draw 5.5 cm (1⁄3 of the neck’s half-girth based on the measurement plus 5 millimeters) from A to the right along segment A-B. Draw 1.5 cm upwards from the segment 5.5 extreme mark. Join marks A and 1.5 by using a concave shape.

Shoulder slope

Draw 1.5 cm downhill from P.

Shoulder line

Draw a length of 12 cm (shoulder length + 1 cm for fit for all sizes) through marks 1.5 (neck) and 1.5 (shoulder slope).

Armhole line

P-G2-G3 is a half-angle, and G2 draws a 3-centimeter line along the angle’s bisector. Continue the side seam’s contour upward by 5 millimeters starting at G4. Trace the outline of the armhole through marks 12 (the midpoint of the P-G2 division) and mark 3 to 0.5 (5 millimeters).

Side seam

We retreat 2 centimeters, or T3, from T2 to T-T1 to the left. The side seam’s contour is sketched through 0.5, G4, T3, and finally, from T3 via L2 to the intersection. utilizing C-D. We lay a length equal to T-D = H1 from T3 along the side seam’s contour.

Bottom line

Split the D-H segment in half, then join H1 to the division point.

Stage three: shelf

Neckline

Along the section Ψ-Ο2, we lay 5.5 cm (or 1⁄3 half-circumference of the neck, 0.5 cm for all sizes) from the mark Ψ to the left. We retreat 6 centimeters (1⁄3 of the neck semicircle + 1 cm) from the mark Ψ down the segment Ψ-Ρ. We divide it in half and connect marks 5, 5, and 6 with a dotted line. Mark Ψ to the division mark with a dotted line: 1⁄3 of the neck semicircle plus 0.5 cm = 5.5 cm. A concave contour connects marks 5, 5, and 6.

Shoulder line

Mark 5.5 (on the segment W-P2) is connected to the upper division mark of the segment P-G2 (back) using a dotted line. A line measuring 11 centimeters (shoulder length) is drawn on the same segment from the 5.5 mark to the left. Mark 11 is where we laid 1 centimeter. Mark 11 is connected to 5.5 (the neck).

Washing line

We lay 2 cm from mark G3 along the bisector of the angle P1-G3-G2. The armhole contour should be drawn through marks 11 (the end of the shoulder contour), mark 2, the segment G-G1’scentraldivision point, and the 0.5 mark (side seam).

Side seam

We draw 2 cm = T4 from mark T2 (on segment T-T1) to the right. In order to intersect with segment C-D, we draw the contour of the side seam through marks 0.5, G4, T4, and L2. We draw a segment from T4 along the side seam’s contour that is equal to the distance from T3 to H1 (the back side seam) = H2.

We design the waist level

We take a 1.5 cm step down from mark T1 along segment B-C and join the resulting mark with L2.

We design the hip level

We take a 1.5 cm step back (for all sizes) from L5 down along segment B-C to connect mark 1.5 with L2.

We design the bottom level

We follow the straight line from mark C on segment B-C down 1.5 cm and join it with H2.

Step fourth: sleeve

With sides A, B, C, and D, draw a rectangle. A-D and B-C vertical segments are 50 cm apart.

Sleeves’ length based on measurements. The width of the sleeves measured horizontally from A to B and C to D is 27.3 cm (1⁄3 of the chest’s half-girth plus 1 cm, multiplied by two).

Height of the armhole

Mark P (three-quarters of the armhole depth) is placed after we lay 12.5 cm from mark A down the segment A-D. dress basics). We draw a horizontal line to the intersection from P to the right. segment B-C equals P1.

Auxiliary marks of the cap and the lower edge of the sleeve

Separate the A-B segment into four equal parts. Put an O next to the central division mark. We descend perpendicular lines to the intersection from the division marks of the A-B segment. with sections C–D. Designate with H, H1, and H2.

Sleeve cap

Dotted lines link marks O and P1, as well as marks P and O. Mark the locations where they intersect. with O1 and O2 auxiliary lines. Split each of the dotted line’s intervals in half, then move away from the division points at a right angle to the dotted lines: P-O1 down 0.5 cm, O1-O up 2 cm, O-O2 up 1.5 cm, and O2-P1 down 2 cm. Starting at O1, we draw 1 cm. Our route for the sleeve cap contour is P; 0.5; 1; 2; O; 1.5; O2; 2; P1.

Lower cut of the sleeve

We laid one centimeter upward from marks D, H1, and C. We laid 2 centimeters upward from the mark H2. The lower cut reaches mark 1 by following the markings 1; H; 1; and 2.

Cut

You can always sew any style of dress for girls by following the pattern of the USSR era school uniform. Along with sewing skirts and blouses, you’ll make minor adjustments to the basic drawing. With this pattern, you can also sew a dress that would be appropriate for an adolescent girl’s school uniform; all you have to do is add a bust dart (the drawing in this case is cut at the waist level).

Typically, a school uniform skirt is sewn in a circle fold or in folds arranged in distinct groups. Another option is to cut out a wedge-style skirt.

After cutting the skirt, you must begin cutting the back and shelf.

There are two styles of collars that can be worn with school dresses: turn-down and stand-up. If you plan to make a turn-down collar, mark the fastener in the front and when cutting to accommodate the transition between the fastener and hem, add 5 cm to the middle of the shelf. Should you choose to sew a stand-up collar, create a fastener at the back and add 5 cm to the middle of the back in advance for the hem and fastener.

Stitch the bust dart along the laid snares or tuck it into the gentle shoulder folds.

Remember to allow for seams when cutting out the blanks.

They are 5–10 mm along the neckline, 15 mm along the armhole, 20 mm along the shoulder, 25 mm along the side seam, 40–50 mm along the waist, 50–60 mm along the bottom edge, 20 mm along the sleeve’s side cuts, and 5–10 mm along the sleeve’s bottom cut. Sew the sleeve cap without making any allowances. Using scissors, cut out the marking at the top of the sleeve.

Sewing

After cutting out every blank while accounting for seam allowances, we start basting them. The darts are basted first, followed by the shoulders and side cuts. Remember to pin the front, back, and waist.

The sleeve of the school dress is widened towards the bottom, on the cuff. To allow the arm to pass freely into the dress part, leave an unstitched edge (cut) for the cuff of 3-4 cm on the elbow line along the bottom of the sleeve and make notches at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Hem by hand with blind stitches. This part of the bottom of the sleeve will remain unstitched into the cuff. Further from the notches of the lower edge of the sleeve, two threads are laid. The laid threads must be pulled together along the length of the cuff and the gathering distributed (evenly or in groups of folds). Baste the cuff, placing it face to face of the sleeve. Sew, stepping back from the edge of 5-10 millimeters. Fold the cuff by 5-10 millimeters and sew from the wrong side of the sleeve with blind stitches behind the line. Baste the finished sleeve parts into the armholes.

Cut out two copies of the turn-down collar for the school dress, remembering to allow 5 millimeters for seams. 5 millimeters from the cut edge, sew the toe and the lower edge of the collar. Adjust the seams on both sides straight. After pinning the center of the collar to the center of the back and the edges of the collar along the stitching line to the center of the shelf, we cut out the corners to prevent the collar from thickening, turn the collar inside out, iron it, and baste it to the neckline.

Aspect Description
Patterns Choose patterns that are age-appropriate and simple, with minimal pieces to make sewing easier. Look for designs with adjustable sizes to ensure a good fit.
Cutting Use high-quality fabric and sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for accurate cutting. Follow the pattern pieces carefully to ensure all parts align correctly.
Sewing Start with a basic stitch and ensure all seams are neat and secure. Use a sewing machine for straight lines and consider hand-sewing for details or small areas.

Making dresses for a girl who is seven years old can be a gratifying and enjoyable endeavor. A lovely and well-fitting dress that a young girl will adore can be made by carefully choosing the appropriate patterns, cutting methods, and sewing stitches.

Your dress’s pattern serves as a guide, guaranteeing that the style is fashionable and appropriate for the wearer’s age. Take into account the child’s comfort level, ease of movement, and desired overall style when selecting a pattern.

A dress must be cut correctly to be successful. To prevent any mistakes, measure precisely and cut the fabric with care. A well-fitting dress with clean lines can be achieved with the help of this step.

Lastly, sewing the dress calls for patience and close attention to detail. To make sure the dress is long-lasting and cozy for the child to wear, pay close attention to the pattern’s instructions and employ high-quality sewing techniques.

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Elena Gromova

I have been involved in fashion design for over 15 years. For me, fabric is the foundation from which any outfit begins. I love experimenting with textures and colors, creating new looks and inspiring others. Here I talk about how to choose the perfect material for your wardrobe and how to care for your favorite things.

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