The bust dart is one of the crucial details that must be mastered in order to create a garment that fits well. In order to shape fabric to follow the body’s natural curves and create a comfortable and attractive silhouette, bust darts are essential.
It’s essential to comprehend the fundamentals of bust dart formation if you want your sewing projects to appear polished and expert. The principles are always the same and can be tailored to fit different designs, regardless of whether you’re working with a delicate fabric or a more structured material.
This post will explain how to form a bust dart step-by-step and provide you with easy-to-follow advice and methods so you can do it correctly every time. You can improve the fit and quality of your clothes and make your handmade items really stand out by adhering to these guidelines.
| Rule | Description |
| Mark the Bust Point | Identify the bust point on your fabric to ensure the dart is correctly positioned. |
| Measure Dart Length | Determine the appropriate dart length to create a natural shape without excess fabric. |
| Fold and Pin | Fold the fabric along the dart line and pin it securely before sewing. |
| Sew Gradually | Sew from the wide end of the dart toward the tip, tapering off gently at the end. |
| Press Dart | Press the dart flat, pointing toward the bust to create a smooth finish. |
- What is a bust dart
- How to form a dart on the chest
- Breast dart solution: table
- Transferring the bust dart
- Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line
- Transferring the bust dart to the line side seam
- Transferring the dart to the side seam at the waistline level
- Transferring the shoulder dart to the middle of the front
- Transferring the shoulder dart to the neckline
- How to raise the dart on the chest much
- Video on the topic
- Deformation of the bust dart and its correction
- Construction of the bust dart
- Modeling the bodice. Basic principles and techniques for transferring the bust dart
- Dressing the dart. How to properly get rid of the bust dart? Working with the basic base.
- Master class "Transfer of the bust dart" Teacher of special disciplines Lavrinenko N.A
- Moving the chest dart of the base base with nuances
- Bust dart. Simply about the complex. The simplest way to construct a dart
What is a bust dart
Darts are wedge-shaped seams that, where there are bulges in finished clothing, give the appearance of a human figure. Seams known as "bust darts" are positioned on the shelves to give the fabric a chest shape.
- from the armhole;
- from the neck;
- from the side cut;
- from the shoulder cut.
The seam should always end in the center of the chest; only the beginning of the seam may vary. Although they are known as waist darts, there are also darts that go from the waist to the center of the chest. They add the required volume to the chest area and narrow the garment at the waist.
- One vertex. It is a triangle, the vertex of which will be located in the most protruding part of the chest, and the wide part – on the cut, where the seam will subsequently be.
- Two vertices (shaped). They are used on solid parts for fitting, with one vertex located in the middle of the chest, and the second – below the waist, on the hip line.
Darts are additionally
- ironed and unironed;
- with or without a finishing line;
- slit and uncut,
- with or without an additional strip.
Every kind of seam on the front of the clothing is functional and used to build various models. However, because their size can only be calculated and not measured, they are difficult to construct.
- Method G. M. Zlachevskaya – a strip is built from the armhole using two measurements (the width of the chest in the most convex part and the width above the chest)
- The Muller and Son method – only the chest circumference is taken into account, not its full size, so sometimes the size is inaccurate.
- The Unified Method of Clothing Design of the Central Experimental and Technical Sewing Laboratory (EMKO TsOTShL) also takes into account the width of the chest at the highest points (SHG 1) and above the chest (SHG 2), and then calculations are made using the formula: 2 (SHG2 – SHG1) + 2 cm. Calculations lead to a very accurate result.
There are many ways to accurately locate darts on the back and chest seams of various kinds of clothes, both with and without formulas, precise and imprecise. This allows one to select the best option.
How to form a dart on the chest
- Center of the chest (CG). The distance between the nipple points is measured and divided in half.
- Chest height (CH). Measured from the protruding point of the chest to the shoulder seam at the base of the neck and 0 is added.5 see.
The designer has the freedom to choose how the strip is angled. For instance, the silhouette is more elegant when it slopes slightly downward. Additionally, it is preferable to stop at a straight line that will conceal the seam when working with fabric that has a geometric pattern.
Breast dart solution: table
Its width, or the extra fabric that it conceals, is the dart solution. There are no precise tables for determining the solution because it can vary based on the silhouette, chest shape, width and slope of the shoulders, and other indicators. The fitting will still require you to make adjustments. However, you can compute the solution and use the approximate table below for accurate average fullness figures even if your eye is not yet trained.
| Chest girth | Width solution |
| 80 | 6.5 |
| 82 | 6.7 |
| 84 | 6.9 |
| 86 | 7.2 |
| 88 | 7.4 |
| 90 | 7.6 |
| 92 | 8 |
| 94 | 8.4 |
| 96 | 8.8 |
| 98 | 9.2 |
| 100 | 9.6 |
| 102 | 10.2 |
| 104 | 10.8 |
| 106 | 11.4 |
| 108 | 12 |
| 110 | 12.6 |
| 112 | 12.9 |
| 114 | 13.2 |
| 116 | 13.5 |
| 118 | 13.8 |
| 120 | 14.1 |
| 122 | 14.4 |
| 124 | 14.7 |
| 126 | 15 |
| 128 | 15.2 |
| 130 | 15.4 |
Transferring the bust dart
They can be transferred if there is a ready-made pattern with darts to accentuate the bust line but they don’t fit or are the wrong size. There are several places to transfer: the middle of the front, the armhole line, the side seam line, including the waist line, and the neckline.
The seam must, among other things, tend toward the center of the chest (CG). Making a copy of the intended part’s pattern on tracing paper is the first step in the transfer process.
Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line
Marking the CG point and drawing a straight line from it to the armhole line is sufficient to transfer to the armhole line. Next, close the solution from the shoulder seam by cutting along the resulting line without cutting more than 2-3 mm.
Transferring the bust dart to the line side seam
The new line may be lowered slightly or run horizontally. After choosing the desired location on the armhole, you must measure and connect it to the point CG at a distance of 4-5 cm from the bottom of the armhole. Then, you must cut along the resulting strip and close the upper dart.
Transferring the dart to the side seam at the waistline level
Determine the new location of the dart on the shelf, cut the image along the drawn line, close the main dart, and open a new one before moving it to the waistline.
It is advised not to draw a pattern that extends more than 1-2 cm to the center of the chest when using the transfer of darts on the bodice to give the product smoothness.
Depending on the fabric, you can either fully or partially sew to determine the level of softness beneath the chest. You can make a fold to add some color to the resulting layering of fabric on the waist. In this instance, you will need to extend the bodice by 3–5 cm in order to create an overlap. You can replicate multiple folds or tiny tucks in the skirt’s drapery if the solution is very wide.
Transferring the shoulder dart to the middle of the front
Locate a point 2 cm below the chest line and the front center, then connect these two points to transfer to the middle of the front. The direction of the seam will be indicated by the resulting line. Next, establish a connection between the waist and chest centers. The base is combined after cuts are made along the obtained lines. The center of the front line is aligned once the obtained solution is laid in the direction of the belt. The figure can be marked with an accurate angle to indicate the seam, which is dependent on the size of the waist and chest.
Transferring the shoulder dart to the neckline
Determine the seam’s direction and make a new cut, closing the previous one in the shoulder direction, to transfer the shoulder dart to the neckline.
To create a soft volume above the chest line, darts on the fabric can be sewn from the inside and along the product’s front side.
How to raise the dart on the chest much
You can try adjusting the line by lowering or raising it along the figure if shifting the top point’s location is insufficient and more drastic action is needed.
- Draw a line on the chest that will pass under the dart, turn it up at a right angle immediately after its top point.
- Make a cut along the resulting L-shaped line and fold it up to the height of the new seam.
- Glue the missing paper.
- Lengthen the seams at the waist.
Anyone who works with clothing fabrics needs to know the fundamentals of forming a bust dart. You can guarantee a more precise fit and a polished finish in your clothing by adhering to a few basic guidelines.
Recall that practice makes perfect. Your confidence in making darts that improve the fit and comfort of your clothes will grow as you try more diverse materials and methods.
You can achieve professional-looking results in your sewing projects with a little perseverance and attention to detail.
A bust dart is a basic but essential component of clothing construction that forms fabric to follow the body’s natural curves. Knowing the fundamentals of bust dart formation guarantees that clothes fit properly and have a polished, polished appearance. These guidelines call for precisely marking, measuring, and stitching the dart in addition to correctly pressing it for a smooth finish. A more comfortable and flattering fit can be achieved by following these steps, which will have a significant impact on the finished item.
